It’s a vicious circle: the better a destination is, the more tourists flock to it. But despite mass tourism, the world’s major cities are still full of undiscovered treasures. Podcast host and travel expert Margherita Devalle has compiled thirty of them in the somewhat different travel guide “Soul of Milan”, published by Jonglez Verlag. We take a trip to the city’s most hidden corners.
A GENIUS PIZZERIA, STILL IN THE STYLE OF THE 1970S
Pizzeria Oceania dates back to the 1970s and is a very special place in Milan: original vintage décor from the seventies (in the back room), experimental music in the background, pizza from a frying pan … Plus a genial, red-haired pizza chef and landlord who will tell you enthusiastically about the art installations his father came up with when he founded the place (and of which a few traces still remain) … By then at the latest you will have understood that here, east of the city center, the soul of a somewhat different Milan is expressed. Be sure to try the ginger and honey fries and beg the owner to tell you the date of the next goulash evening. If you like a slightly alternative, authentic atmosphere, this is the place for you.
Pizzeria Oceania Via Giovanni Briosi 10 20133 Milano
A HOT EVENING IN CHINATOWN
Milan’s Chinatown can be compared to its counterpart in New York in culinary terms. But which of the many addresses here should we particularly recommend? Start your visit with a glass of wine at Cantine Isola, a small, hidden paradise. Wine bottles and their labels adorn the walls here. If the weather is fine, enjoy your glass outside, preferably sitting Asian-style on typical red plastic stools. On Tuesdays, Milanese poems and songs are recited in the Cantine Isola. Opposite is the famous Ravioleria Sarpi, an absolute must: the stuffed ravioli are freshly prepared at the counter with high-quality ingredients and a little bit of love. They are considered the best Chinese ravioli in the city. If you take one of the cooking courses offered there, you can even make these ravioli at home.
Ravioleria Sarpi Via Paolo Sarpi, 27 20154 Milano
Cantine Isola Via Paolo Sarpi, 30 20154 Milano
THE BEST TRATTORIA IN TOWN?
Trattoria Trippa Milano was founded by long-time friends Pietro Caroli and Diego Rossi and is one of the most popular restaurants in Milan. Here, creativity meets casual ambience, in the style of the trattorias of yesteryear. Chef Diego offers a daily changing, seasonal and sustainable menu to complement the dishes that have become symbols of this typical trattoria: from vitello tonnato – reinterpreted with a velvety sauce from the espuma bottle – to the tempting tagliatelle burro e parmigiano and trippa fritta, the crispy deep-fried tripe. A trattoria with a strong identity that celebrates Italian cuisine in a welcoming atmosphere and with an excellent wine list. Trippa is a must for anyone in search of authenticity. Make sure you book well in advance.
Trippa Milano Via Giorgio Vasari, 1 20135 Milano
ART AND DESIGN OF THE 20TH CENTURY WITHIN REACH?
Robertaebasta is like an art museum from which you could take every exhibit home with you. The gallery contains an avant-garde collection of the greatest international artists of the 20th century. Century. Roberta Tagliavini founded her first gallery in Milan in 1967, at a time when the city was nothing like the elegant metropolis it is today. “Milan was very dirty,” recalls Roberta. However, she didn’t stop at appearances, but actually helped to turn Brera into one of the most sought-after districts in the city. Her first customers were the great fashion designers, the visionaries who knew how to anticipate trends. Armani – still a loyal customer today – Cavalli, Versace. “Versace was officially the first person to enter the store here in Brera and buy something,” says Roberta. Since then, her special style and know-how have made her an international expert in 20th century art, with a focus on Art Nouveau and Art Deco.
Robertaebasta Via Fiori Chiari, 2 20121 Milano
A KIOSK WITH RECORDS, SURROUNDED BY TOURIST TRAYS
In the square in front of the Duomo, between the many tourists and the mediocre stores dedicated to them, Gigi has surprisingly survived. In 1977, he transformed the small kiosk he had inherited from his uncles into a real sanctuary for record fans. After Expo 2015, he added a few souvenirs to the range “to keep it going”, but the core of the kiosk remained unchanged: Vintage records from a wide variety of eras and musical genres. Everything is cataloged in his memory, he doesn’t need a written archive. Every record is unique. One of the kiosk’s hidden treasures is an LP by Rino Gaetano that is still in its original packaging, and Gigi is also happy to talk about selling an extremely rare album by Franco Battiato. His customers include many VIPs. Maybe you’ll see a famous face if you stay longer than just for a coffee…
Discovery by Gigi Passaggio Santa Margherita Piazza dei Mercanti 20123 Milano
A DAY IN THE NAVIGLI VIERTEL – LIVING LIKE THE MILANES
Start the day with a stroll through the vintage boutiques scattered around the district. At Ambroeus Milano you will find timeless pieces (there is another well-stocked location in the Isola district). PWC Milano mixes the past with collections from young, up-and-coming fashion designers. And Groupies is a little out of the way, but offers hunters and collectors vintage treasures from all over the world. At lunchtime, you will find Brutto Anatroccolo, a traditional restaurant with no frills where time has stood still. Here you can enjoy Milanese home cooking at a low price. Don’t miss the mega portion of grilled scamorza or the arrostino (rosemary ham) if they are on the – handwritten – menu of the day! A rarely authentic place. Bar Frizzi e Lazzi has been around since 1982 and its large courtyard, which cannot be seen from the street, is surrounded by old Milanese houses with typical balustrades. On offer: a few tramezzini (the “Cosacco” is very popular with the regulars), draught beer and large screens for soccer broadcasts. For dinner, the Osteria Conchetta is an institution here in the district. The risottos are excellent, especially the “Riserva mantecato” version, which is prepared in front of the guest. Afterwards, the house orecchia d’elefante is almost a tradition. The portions are large – it is a good idea to share. After dinner, you head to Cox18, a social space that has been occupied and self-managed since 1976. Definitions don’t apply here, and that’s how it should be. Creative, artistic, revolutionary … a place to fall in love with, where there is always some kind of unusual cultural event on offer, plus beer at one of the lowest prices in Milan. On the outside wall is one of the rare Milanese works by Blu, the famous Italian street artist who (like his colleague Banksy) has never revealed his identity.
Vintage boutiques: @ambroeus.milano @pwcmilano @groupiesvintage
Gross Anatroccolo Via Evangelista Torricelli 3 20136 Milano
Frizzi e Lazzi Via Evangelista Torricelli 5 20136 Milano
Osteria Conchetta Via Conchetta 8 20136 Milano
Cox18 Via Conchetta 18 20136 Milano
STREETFOOD ALLA MILANESE
Of course there is good food in Milan. But not just in restaurants! Here are three addresses for excellent street food that are worth the detour. A real Milanese weekend involves queuing up on Saturdays outside the green, white and red store of fried chicken king Giannasi, founded in 1967. For generations, Milanese people have come here to get a spit-roasted chicken and eat it at home or at a picnic in one of Milan’s parks. Also recommended: the giannuggets. Amidst the stalls on the Darsena (inland port), which smell of exotic spices from all over the world, there is a wonderful, if somewhat unusual, butcher’s shop. There are no butchers at the Macelleria Popolare, only chefs: the pastrami sandwich, the grilled bone marrow and the polpette della nonna (meatballs) are among the undisputed bestsellers, which are eaten standing at the counter or sitting on the Darsena when the weather is nice. Naturally, only organic, pasture-raised meat is served here, prepared with the utmost care in front of the customers. Watch out: the delicious tiramisu is only available to order! The Chiosco (kiosk) Maradona in Via Tabacchi is something very special. For many, this is where Milan’s nightlife ends: You grab a bite to eat before you finally go to sleep. The kiosk only closes when everyone has fallen into bed. The menu includes horsemeat (but not only!), panini and fries in huge portions. Be sure to try Il Magnifico, a panino with horse ragout, bacon, onions, scamorza cheese and a sauce made from secret ingredients. If you spend a long night in Milan, you are sure to end up at Chiosco Maradona. There’s no way around it: tradition needs to be respected!
Giannasi 1967 Piazza B. Buozzi 2 20135 Milano
Macelleria Popolare (Darsena) Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio 4 20123 Milano
Chiosco Maradona Via Odoardo Tabacchi, 33 20136 Milano
MORE THAN 35,000 BOOKS IN A MAGICAL PLACE
You don’t just read books – you live them, hear them, touch them. If you have forgotten this, the Kasa dei Libri will remind you. It is neither a library nor a bookshop, but a true haven for creative minds. The inviting, unusual place extends over the fifth and sixth floors of a modern building not far from the Bosco Verticale and is the result of the passion of writer and collector Andrea Kerbaker, who has built up a collection since his childhood that now comprises more than 35,000 volumes. The former private apartments have been transformed into a magical, welcoming literary paradise open to all. The heart of the collection can be found on the fifth floor: rare books, some of which are over 500 years old, such as a precious Aldine (one of the first paperbacks) from the year 1500, as well as strange books, volumes with dedications and the mysterious “phantom books”, which were withdrawn from circulation because they had caused displeasure.
Kasa dei Libri Largo Aldo de Benedetti, 4 20124 Milano
SOUL OF MILAN
Eating dinner with strangers in a strange old apartment, going full throttle on an old racing bike track or filling your stomach with authentic street food: Milan offers a lot more than the usual tourist traps. Margherita Devalle has tracked down the 30 best secret hotspots and created a travel guide with a difference. The recipe for a unique stay in Milan? Forget the hyped TikTok videos, avoid the crowds and pick up a good old book. Margherita Devalle, “Soul of Milan”, Jonglez Verlag, approx. 15. -,
jonglezpublishing.com
MARGHERITA DEVALLE
No well-kept secret can hide from her: TikTok and TripAdvisor don’t stand a chance against presenter, podcast host and travel professional Margherita Devalle. She has compiled the best hotspots in her adopted home of Milan for “Soul of Milan”.
@margherita_devalle
OTTAVIO FANTIN
A cell phone photo is often enough to fuel the desire to travel. Or, in today’s world, a TikTok video. Photographer Ottavio Fantin likes the classic way and has already traveled to over 50 countries with his camera. He prefers to capture pulsating metropolises and empty corners in analog format. He was clearly the right person to visually capture the best corners of his home country for “Soul of Milan”.
@ottaviofantin
We spoke to author Margherita Devalle and tried to tease even more insider tips out of her. You can read the full interview with Margherita Devalle here.
Curious about the rest of the hotspots? You can get the book “Soul of Milan” here.
Photos: © Ottavio Fantin
