Milano Fashion Report Spring/Summer 2023

Tradition and modernity went hand in hand during the Spring/Summer 23 shows in Milan. Gucci’s “Twinsburg” show was a personal tribute to the brand’s creative director’s twin mothers. Dolce & Gabbana brought Kim Kardashian on board as curator for their show and together they created a fashion collection called “Ciao Kim”. Hugo Boss presented its winter collection in a shoppable live show on TikTok, while Diesel showed its collection in a sold-out stadium with over 5,000 spectators and a giant inflatable sculpture on the catwalk depicting two engaged couples – the largest inflatable sculpture in the world, according to Guinness World Records. Swiss fashion house Bally held a catwalk show for the first time in two decades. Moncler celebrated its 70th anniversary with a memorable and unreproducible fashion show, which was watched by an estimated 18,000 spectators.

The fashion shows that attracted the most attention

Diesel, Moncler and Boss. And why? Because of the audience, which for once consisted not only of members of the press, buyers and celebrities, but of people like you and me. This approach generated a lot of discussion – and brought the brands the corresponding attention.

New designers celebrated their debut in Milan

Various fashion houses have placed their creative fortunes in new hands. At Fashion Week in Milan, some designers present their first collections for their new clients.

Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis, a 27-year-old British designer, has been appointed as the new Creative Director at Ferragamo. He previously had his own label, which he has now put on hold and also withdrew from the competition for the LVMH prize for young designers in order to take up the position at Ferragamo. Davis’ work is characterized by sharp cuts, bold silhouettes and structured fabrics.

Filippo Grazioli for Missoni
Missoni has appointed 40-year-old Filippo Grazioli as its new Creative Director. He previously worked at Burberry, where he worked under Riccardo Tisci, as well as at Givenchy, Hermès and Martin Margiela. For his first collection, Grazioli presented a collection rooted in the house’s classics, but with a more sexual, body-hugging aesthetic.

Marco de Vincenzo for Etro
Marco de Vincenzo is Etro’s new Creative Director, taking on the role of Veronica and Kean. The 44-year-old Sicilian designer attaches great importance to sustainability. After buying back his eponymous brand from LVMH in 2020, he presented a collection of upcycled vintage pieces at Milan Fashion Week. His aim is now to make sustainability an integral part of his work at Etro.

Rhuigi Villaseñor for Bally
After five years, Bally finally has a Creative Director again: Rhuigi Villaseñor, founder of the high-end streetwear brand Rhude. The 30-year-old designer and entrepreneur is known for his multidisciplinary approach. He is now responsible for the creative direction of three different collections: Bally, Rhude and his ongoing RHU line for athleisure for Zara.

Moncler celebrates its 70th anniversary

To celebrate its 70th anniversary, Moncler staged a monumental fashion show in the Piazza del Duomo in Milan. The show, directed by Sadeck Berrabah, was attended by 1,952 people, including 700 dancers, 200 musicians, 100 choristers and 952 models. Sadeck Waff was responsible for the choreography. The show was seen by an estimated 18,000 spectators and was opened by the famous dancer Virna Toppi, the prima ballerina of the Teatro Alla Scala di Milano. CEO and Chairman Remo Ruffini also invited seven designers to reinterpret Moncler’s iconic Maya jacket, including Rick Owens, Pharrell Williams and Hiroshi Fujiwara. Moncler’s 70th anniversary continued with an exclusive dinner attended by notable past and present partners, including Pharrell Williams, Michele Lamy, Francesco Ragazzi and Hiroshi Fujiwara, as well as Salehe Bembury, who is rumored to soon be a part of Moncler. The dinner was also attended by celebrity guests such as Anne Hathaway, Colin Kaepernick and Shailene Woodley.

The fashion trends for summer 2023 from Milan

Italian fashion is known for mixing different styles and trends, including avant-garde designs and more traditional, classic looks. Here are the seven trends, styles and colors that will influence fashion for the upcoming spring-summer season.

Cargo Pants

Cargo pants were very popular in the 1990s and are now making a comeback. Labels such as Fendi, Jil Sander, Brunello Cucinelli and Versace have retained the relaxed and wide shape of cargo pants, but have updated the look by introducing softer fabrics such as satin. This update gives the silhouette a more modern and luxurious feel and makes it more versatile.

Fringes

The fringe trend continues and was shown at Milan Fashion Week by labels such as Etro, Giorgio Armani, Jil Sander, Elisabetta Franchi and Versace. Fringes have been popular for several seasons: they can be seen on various items of clothing such as skirts, dresses, tops, bags, shoes and even on the edges of jackets and coats.

Denim

Denim is experiencing a revival of bold and avant-garde designs, with brands such as Diesel, ACT N1, Versace and Blumarine leading the way. Popular trends include yellow-tinted washes, contrasting details, thigh-high cuts and a nod to the nostalgia of 90s club kid culture.

Transparency

Sheer fabrics have been at the top of the game for several seasons now, and it looks as though this will continue in spring/summer 2023. Labels such as Prada, Emporio Armani, Bottega, Alberta Ferretti, Missoni and Ferragamo showed transparent fabrics such as chiffon, organza and tulle at Milan Fashion Week, lending the garments a touch of elegance and femininity. The color palette ranges from delicate pastel shades to bold, bright colors and subtle nude and black.

Sexy cut-out

This trend is often attributed to designer Tom Ford, who is known for incorporating cut-outs into his clothes and catwalk shows. Versace, Cavalli, Missoni Philosophy, Trussadi, Alberta Ferretti, Gucci and Sportmax are also joining in this season.

Micro shorts

Brands such as Diesel, Etro, Roberto Cavalli, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Max Mara, Genny, Trussardi and Elisabetta Franchi presented their own versions of the micro shorts trend in Milan with different styles, cuts and fabrics. Some have featured high-waisted micro shorts, others have added embellishments, prints or embroidery.

Metallic and glitter

Metallic and glitter finishes have been popular in fashion for some time now and are expected to remain on trend in the spring and summer 2023 season. Labels such as Missoni, Moschino, D&G and Bally led the way with this trend at the fashion weeks in Milan.

The colors of summer

Color trends spring/summer 2023: Bright blues, celadon greens and nude skin tones were highlighted as spring and summer trends at Milan Fashion Week. Black, red, green and pink were also prominently represented.

The number one topic of conversation

It is not uncommon for brands to work with celebrities to promote their products and raise their profile. In this case, Dolce & Gabbana enlisted the help of Kim Kardashian to curate a show featuring iconic looks from the brand’s history. However, the relationship between the brand and the Kardashians has not always been positive, as one of the designers, Stefano Gabbana, has made negative comments about the family in the past. In 2018, Stefano Gabbana wrote a now-deleted comment on Instagram in which he described the Kardashians as “the cheapest people in the world”. However, it seems that Gabbana has now changed his attitude.

Stars and celebrities at Milan Fashion Week

Many stars, celebrities and models were spotted on and off the catwalk at various fashion shows. Notable appearances include the return of old-school supermodels such as Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni to the catwalk. Khloé Kardashian, North, Chicago, Saint and Kris Jenner wore sparkling and coordinated outfits at Dolce & Gabbana. Model Alessandra Ambrosio turned heads at the Dolce & Gabbana show by wearing a daring ensemble that included a sheer black jumpsuit that revealed her lingerie. Other guests in the front row included disability commissioner Sinead Burke, the creative director of Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and influencer Bryan Boy at Prada. Best friends Olivia Palermo and Nicky Hilton Rothschild also sat in the front row, as did Carine Roitfeld at Max Mara. Paris Jackson walked for Philipp Plein, while Paris Hilton hit the catwalk at the Versace show in a shimmering pink mini dress with matching heels and gloves. Julia Garner and Mark Foster were spotted alongside other celebrities in the front row at Gucci. Runway regulars Gigi, Bella, Em Rata and Vittoria Steinberg dominated the catwalk at Versace. Kirsten Dunst was spotted at Bottega Veneta. Cate Blanchett, Irina Shayk, Alessandra Ambrosio, Laura Hutton, Rocío Muñoz Morales and Valentina Sampaio were a chic group in the front row at Armani. At the Moschino show, Chiara Ferragni, Heidi Klum and Alessandra Ambrosio posed together in Moschino statement outfits.