To mark the launch of her new Eau de Nuits “Nocturnal”, Pauline Rochas, granddaughter of perfume icon Hélène Rochas, held a pop-up at the Retti store in Vienna. It is the scent of those nights “that we don’t know where they will take us”, is how Pauline describes her latest creation in an interview. We met her in her beautiful old building in Vienna. An honest conversation about the appeal of opposites, finding your own voice and the importance of “real” in an increasingly digital world.
FACES: Pauline, how would you describe yourself?
Pauline Rochas: I live for duality. That applies to my work, but also to my private life. And it is also the central theme of my latest Eau de Nuit “Nocturnal”. I am fascinated by the contrast between light and shadow. Similar to black and white photography, it is precisely these opposing poles that intensify emotions in fragrances. For me, “Nocturnal” is an ode to the dual nature of the night – between quiet introspection and pulsating energy. And I think this also reflects me and my way of working: I sometimes feel like a chameleon, I love contrasts, I like to be alone in nature and equally enjoy being in vibrant cities with friends. I carry the deep heritage of my family within me (Pauline Rochas is the granddaughter of the former French perfume icon Hélène Rochas and the couturier Marcel Rochas) and yet I am “rock’n’roll”.
F: You just mentioned your family background. When did your fascination with the world of fragrances begin?
PR: From a very early age. Both my grandmothers played a central role in this. My paternal grandmother, Hélène, was a visionary, I went to the ballet and opera with her and got to know key people in the creative industry very early on. My maternal grandmother Denise Boyriven’s house was on the French Riviera, where I spent many summers. The mix of jasmine and eucalyptus trees, the salty sea breeze and mimosas will always stay with me. My creation No. 6 “Genie in a Bottle” is dedicated to her. And then, of course, there are the influences of my parents: my father had a vineyard in Bordeaux, where I also spent a lot of time. I loved playing in the woods and picking berries. Later, I also traveled, where I encountered new fragrances. My creations today are the result of all these encounters and memories. But to come back to the initial question: My fascination began very early on.
“It was important for me to go my own way, to consciously not be reduced to my name.”
F: How have you managed to carry on your family’s rich heritage – and still find your own voice?
PR: It has always been important to me to follow my passion. And that initially led me down a different path: once again, it was my grandmother Hélène who gave me my first camera. I started my career in photography, and only in the last ten years have I returned to my roots as a perfumer. It was important for me to go my own way, to consciously not be reduced to my name. I wanted to do it myself. Today, I have a different approach: I am very proud of my family’s heritage, of my name – and my creations are always a kind of homage to the generations before me.
F: How do you start the creation of a new perfume?
PR: Like composing music, it’s something very intuitive. Or like cooking. I have a basic recipe in my head, I know which fragrances I want to use. And then it’s about giving the process time to fully engage with it – and finding the perfect balance. That took a year with Nocturnal.
F: What essences are central to “Nocturnal”?
PR: I have worked with leather, vanilla, musk, Ambermax, Georgywood, saffron, tonka bean and a frangipane accord. I take the luxury of using only the highest quality essences. Many other brands define the price of a perfume in advance and then start looking for the individual notes. I don’t do that. That’s the difference between “Luxury Niche” and mass brands. For me, the fragrances and therefore also the brands that we wear provide a great deal of information about our own personality. For me, “Nocturnal” is the scent of those nights where we don’t know in advance where they will take us, where we don’t know which people they will introduce us to and which places they will lead us to. It is the scent of freedom, a little Studio 54, lightness and the courage to embrace the unknown.
“There are no gender boundaries in my creations.”
F: Are these feelings that still have enough room for you in our current world?
PR: I think in the end it’s up to us how much space we give to these feelings. I don’t mean that we should ignore what’s happening in the world. But sometimes it’s enough to turn the music up loud in our home to give us back some of that freedom – and to reconnect more strongly with ourselves.
F: Speaking of connections: even before the official launch of “Nocturnal”, you presented the fragrance as part of a pop-up at the Retti store in Vienna. Why was it important to you to create this physical meeting place?
PR: For those who don’t know the store: The store was designed by Hans Hollein in 1965 and, with its iconic aluminum façade, is for me a monument to visionary design power. This is where modern design language meets traditional craftsmanship. I love the store and have dreamed of presenting my perfume there for a long time. The fact that it has now worked out was above all what I call “pure divine timing”. It was also important for me to be there in person and be able to explain the fragrance. To be honest, it was very time-consuming, I was on site for ten hours a day. But I am convinced that it is precisely these physical encounters that we need today more than ever.
F: That’s a great keyword. In a world that is becoming increasingly digital: How much room is there for something as genuine and original as a fragrance?
PR: In my perception, we as a society have already gone a little too far when it comes to digitalization. That’s why I firmly believe that there will be a return to the real thing, in which people will increasingly long for “the real thing”. To perceive things with all their senses, not just via a screen. And we can learn so much from the world of fragrances: there are no fixed rules, no right and wrong. Which scent you like depends entirely on your personal taste. I am convinced that our intuition, our sixth sense and our memories lead us to the scent that is right for us. This is a very special form of non-verbal communication that transcends all boundaries. There are no gender boundaries in my creations, I don’t create with a target customer in mind. I want to touch people on a deeper level. And I want my perfumes to be a form of self-empowerment.
Pauline Rochas
Pauline Rochas initially worked as a photographer before returning to her roots as a perfumer. She is known for her innovative approach to fragrance creation. The central theme of her work is that of duality. Pauline Rochas lives and works in Vienna.
paulinerochas.com
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Photos: © Mato Johannik
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