Paul Marciano has knocked the dirt off denim and made the material sexy. But it’s not just cool pieces and hot cuts that are important to the Guess dad, but also their sustainable production.
FACES: Everyone knows the Guess brand. How would you describe its cornerstones?
Paul Marciano: Guess is sexy and adventurous, California chic with a European twist and an absolute icon. Particularly important are our campaigns, which I have overseen myself since the beginning to ensure that they ideally embody our values.
F: Who wears Guess?
PM: Anyone who wears Guess radiates self-confidence. Our fans choose the styles that best emphasize their personalities. They expect high-quality clothing that will stay with them for a long time and can be styled with a wide variety of outfits.
F: Denim is always there, but this spring in particular it’s really big. What is the best way to wear denim pieces now?
PM: Denim is super sexy this spring, for example in the form of bustiers or low-rise jeans. There are numerous new shapes and washes. The best way for men to wear denim is still to combine straight-cut jeans in a mid-blue wash with a white T-shirt and perhaps a blue blazer. You’re never wrong about that. With a pair of timeless jeans, you’ll always feel well-dressed and comfortable at the same time.
F: Do we even need trends these days?
PM: It’s fun to have a few new statement pieces every season to spice up a collection. However, the most important thing for me is to present garments that everyone needs to improve their style. Quality and performance are particularly important to us, as well as the perfect fit so that all different body types can wear Guess.
F: Where does denim score in comparison to other fabrics?
PM: Denim is the most versatile fabric in the world. Its history speaks for itself: Denim was created for workers, has always been present on the catwalks of the biggest luxury brands, stands for coolness and for lasting a lifetime while still being elegant and chic. The fashion industry is working hard to find new and innovative processes to make the material and its production more sustainable while maintaining quality. At Guess, for example, we have our own sustainable indigo dyeing process, which uses no water and therefore produces no harmful waste water. This drastically reduces the impact on our environment.
The fashion industry, its problems and opportunities
F: The fashion industry is constantly changing. What are you particularly interested in at the moment?
PM: Fashion is trying to reinvent itself all the time. The current transformation will change us all and the industry in the long term. In the future, trends will no longer play a role. The change will be radical, and the biggest challenges from now on are sustainability and digitalization.
F: How are rising prices, conflict and uncertainty affecting the fashion industry and therefore your work?
PM: I would be lying if I said nothing had changed in recent years. Of course, we are struggling with unforeseeable changes due to the pandemic as well as new challenges in the procurement and production of materials and their transportation. In addition, there is a war in Europe that is affecting our company and the lives of millions of people. The only way to drive a company forward these days is to be adaptable and flexible and to adapt the structures to the needs and emergencies that arise on a daily basis.
F: Is being a fashion designer still a dream job these days?
PM: Yes, even today this profession is an absolute dream job. Sure, the job has changed over the years, but it will always be a profession that allows you to express your talent and vision through the creation of a collection.
F: What is the biggest challenge you are currently facing?
PM: Over the past few years, we have experienced crises and survived them. It is always important to look ahead in order to assess upcoming challenges and focus on the things we can control. There are three points that we need to pay particular attention to. Firstly, we must remain true to the principles of the brand and remember who and what we are. Secondly, we must never get too comfortable and must always give the brand the chance to improve and broaden its horizons. Thirdly, we must never forget what our consumers expect from us and what they want.
F: Reducing our consumption is one of the steps we can take to save our world. What does this mean for a fashion company like Guess?
PM: I believe that sustainability is something for everyone; the whole world should be concerned about it. Without a healthy world, we have nothing! This world is a beautiful place and it is up to us to keep it that way. At Guess, this means creating great products from more sustainable materials that offer our customers the highest level of quality. Our focus is on three key words: recycled, organic and innovative. When more sustainable materials and processing technologies emerge, we evaluate them with regard to their potential use by our suppliers. We also take a very close look at new fibers or fabrics and check whether they match Guess and our customers’ high expectations in terms of fit and fashion.
A look into the future
F: How and using which tools will we buy our jeans in the future?
PM: We are moving towards a digital customer experience and are therefore continuing to invest in improving our experience on our global website. As a romantic soul, I am naturally delighted when I see that our consumers celebrate the experience of buying their jeans in our stores. I still believe in exceptional customer service and continuing to improve our shopping experience for our customers.
F: Transparency is one of the most important aspects of a fashion brand today. What does Guess do to ensure transparency for its customers?
PM: Transparency is one of our most important values. We are very proud of our “VISION Guess” report, which makes us one of the first in the fashion industry to have our CSR report properly audited – the highest level of third-party assurance. Our sustainability progress isn’t just marketing, it’s rooted in evidence – and we have the data to back it up!
F: Glamor and sex appeal are key aspects of the Guess campaigns. How have these values changed over the years?
PM: The DNA of Guess has always been and will always be young, sexy and adventurous, even though today we pride ourselves on being young, sexy and sustainable. Sexiness is one of our cornerstones and something that Guess will always represent in a contemporary yet iconic way.
F: Films and series show the very glamorous lives of people who work in the fashion industry. What is it really like?
PM: It depends on what kind of work you do, but in general the fashion industry is not always glamorous and shiny as it is shown in TV series. Sometimes there is a lot of pressure with many deadlines, and you have to be very focused and really motivated. On the other hand, the personal fulfillment that comes from it is huge.
F: Is starting a new fashion label easier today than it used to be?
PM: Consumer behavior has changed. There is no longer any brand loyalty, but people are paying more attention to the price. This is part of our daily challenge to continue to offer great designs in a great quality at an affordable price. In addition, e-commerce has completely revolutionized the retail industry in recent years. To stay in business, you have to be a relevant player in e-commerce and make the right investments in infrastructure, technology and your teams to develop this business.
The secret of Guess’ success
F: What does it take to make fashion successful?
PM: Our strength at Guess is that we always stay true to the principles of our brand and always have a clear focus on who we are. I believe that in fashion it is important to keep up with trends, but I don’t like it when brands become trend victims. After all these years, I have learned that Guess is not just a company: Guess is a family. We have several employees in the company who have been with us from day one, and that is extremely unusual. I am not only happy, but also thrilled with what we have achieved so far! Getting to the point of being a solid company with over 1,600 stores in more than 100 countries with over 25 product categories is no easy feat. We respect our roots and don’t fall for every seasonal trend. We produce high-quality clothing and accessories that are timeless and indispensable, always with sustainability in mind.
F: Why did you want to work in the fashion industry so much in the past?
PM: I started fashion because of the American Dream! A dream I shared with my brothers when we were planning to go to Los Angeles for two weeks on vacation. We ended up staying for two months! I have always loved fashion and advertising. I consider myself very lucky to do what I am most passionate about every day. The Guess advertising campaigns are very important to me and play an important role in the brand’s history and image.
F: How do you envision the fashion industry in ten years?
PM: Still attractive, seductive, functional, versatile and, above all, less harmful to the environment. I dream of working in an industry that you can be proud of.
F: What are you inspired by?
PM: My inspiration comes from music, traveling and black and white films from the 50s and 60s. They have inspired me from a young age and this has always been reflected in our campaigns.
F: Where on earth do you like it best?
PM: I have had a special connection to Tahiti since 2004, when I visited Taha’a and Raiatea with my wife. That was when I fell in love with the country and the Tahitian culture. The sunsets there are simply incredible.
About icons, role models and a welcoming home
F: They are an inspiration for young designers and fashion entrepreneurs. Who do you look up to yourself?
PM: My biggest inspiration has always been my older brother Maurice Marciano. Since the beginning of our Guess journey, he has been my role model in terms of his work ethic, his insatiable need to always learn, his ability to build strong teams and his strong belief that we would always do the right thing for the longevity of the brand. His strong ideas have always inspired me to surpass myself.
F: What do you do when you have time off?
PM: My family is my greatest source of happiness and balance. I also enjoy contemporary art; a passion I share with my brother Maurice. It is very fascinating for me to discover new artists from all over the world.
F: Do you also collect art?
PM: I have a soft spot for contemporary and modern art, and some of my favorite pieces hang in the Guess headquarters in Los Angeles. Some of my pieces from the collection come from artists such as Sterling Ruby, Mariko Mori, Jim Lambie, Chiho Aoshima, Thukral & Tagra, Allora & Calzadilla and Takashi Murakami.
F: How should we imagine your home?
PM: My home is modern, but very inviting and peaceful. The center of my home is my kitchen: this is where I spend most of my time with my family, friends and home-cooked meals. My garden is one of my favorite places; it’s full of beautiful trees and flowers. I love flowers, especially roses.
F: What story from your life are you dying to tell us?
PM: The funniest but boldest memories I have are from a Guess campaign shoot in Seville during a bullfight… without Guess pieces! What an experience!
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Teaser photo and photos: © Guess