There is something almost improbable about the proportions in Uma Wang’s Spring-Summer 2027 collection. The garments have volume, weight, and an architectural presence, yet they rarely appear cumbersome. Wang takes voluminous silhouettes and sets them in motion.
The reference to Alexander Calder—a pioneer of kinetic art and the inventor of the mobile—makes sense, not only because of the balance, but because nothing appears to be completely fixed. Jackets slant diagonally across the body, fabric hangs down in unexpected places, pants gather at the ankles and knot together, while skirts and pants seem to merge into shapes that change as the wearer walks.
Much of the collection thrives on contrast. Dense jacquards sit alongside sheer layers; black tailoring is punctuated by sweeping drapery; parchment, tobacco, and muted bronze give way to shimmering gold. Even the most imposing silhouettes avoid appearing ceremonial. There is always something slightly unsettling—a bare shoulder, an asymmetrical pleat, a fastener placed where you wouldn’t expect it.
This sense of disruption is important. Wang does not present clothing as something that is already completely fixed before it reaches the wearer. The pieces can be wrapped, shifted, tied, or draped in different ways, giving the body a certain degree of influence over the final silhouette.
The cape-like dresses at the end take this idea the furthest. They look striking without being stiff, envelop the body, and yet respond to every step.
Our favorite looks:
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Wang’s achievement this season isn’t simply to make heavy fabrics appear light. It’s about making structure seem temporary—as if the garments could rearrange themselves the moment you turn away.
You can find out more about the upcoming Spring/Summer 2027 collections here.
Teaser photo & photos: © Launchmetrics Spotlight
