First pitied. Then ridiculed. But finally: admired. Clothing is our personal story that we tell without words. And no story in the fashion world contains as much tragedy and triumph as that of Donatella Versace. Now a new chapter begins for the final boss of extravagance – and for Versace, the time after Versace.
We are all in their debt. At least those of us who have searched the internet for images such as “Ryan Gosling hot”, “beach sunset” or “tramp stamp inspiration” over the past 25 years. (Some searches have aged better than others.) For it is thanks to Donatella Versace that Google launched its Image Search function in June 2001. A few months earlier, Jennifer Lopez attended the Grammy Awards in a Versace outfit alongside her then boyfriend Sean “P. Diddy” Combs (some ex-relationships have aged better than others). An appearance with an effect as if humanity had seen the sunlight for the first time. The ocean-green chiffon dress – cut down to the navel – was a sensation, a wonder of the world, a cosmic event. But anyone who fired up the modem to see La Lopez in The Dress with their own eyes was only presented with text-based search results. The tech company, overwhelmed by the demand, soon set about developing a new feature that specifically searched for images.
Veni, vidi, Versace
Would it have come to this if Donatella Versace hadn’t designed that iconic dress and tailored it for J.Lo? Pretty sure. Is Google happy to add a little glamor to its own company history with this anecdote? Definitely. For Donatella, this episode marked her artistic breakthrough since taking over Versace three years earlier. A first attempt to step out of her brother’s shadow and the pain of his loss. However, before she finally succeeded in taking this step, the Italian’s obligatory high heels often faltered.
Gianni and Donatella Versace were inseparable for half a century. The older brother inherited his mother Francesca’s talent for dressmaking and burned with the ambition to turn the craft into an art. His favorite singer at a young age was Patty Pravo, a hydrogen-blonde diva with the worldwide hit “La bambola”. And just like a bambola, a doll, Gianni dressed his little sister, dyeing her hair the same buttery yellow as Pravo’s at the age of eleven. Throughout her life, Donatella remained a canvas for the designer’s visions. A canvas, however, that let the artist know loudly when his brushstrokes were no good and then set the direction himself.
Gianni Versace opened his first boutique in Milan in 1978, Donatella became his left and right hand as Vice President – as long as she didn’t have to hold scissors or a needle. Over the next 20 years, Versace became the epitome of fashionable maximalism. Clothes so dramatic that you want to throw plates at them after the affair and then tear them off your body for reconciliation. The USA conquered Versace, just as the Roman army once conquered its empire. But instead of legionnaires, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington led the triumphal procession – The Big Four, who were plucked from the covers of fashion magazines thanks to Versace and walked the catwalk for the first time in 1991. The brand turned models into supermodels. And pop stars became fans: in 1994, Madonna posed for a photo campaign for the spring/fall collection at Mar-a-Lago. (Some locations have aged better than others).
In dubio, Donatella
Three years later, Gianni Versace was shot dead outside his home in Miami by a man who hoped to become famous. Donatella took over the difficult succession. The fashion world, normally a shark tank, became a koi pond as a result of this stroke of fate and met the new boss with all the goodwill in the world. But the first collections under Donatella’s direction were hardly convincing. The media soon caricatured the fashion designer as a walking tragicomedy, held together by champagne, cigarettes and cosmetic surgery. On 18. On her daughter Allegra’s birthday – to whom Gianni had bequeathed the majority of the Versace company in his will – Elton John personally packed Donatella onto a plane and sent her to rehab for her cocaine addiction.
In the following years, Donatella not only found her way out of drug addiction, but also found a successful direction for the Versace brand. While Gianni always had his head in the clouds for his designs, his sister brought clothing back down to earth with her designs – without sacrificing opulence. As a woman, she understands the needs of her customers and made Versace not just a creative showcase, but wearable chic in all situations. Donatella no longer counters personal attacks from the public with a nose full of white self-confidence, but with indestructible self-irony and a nonchalant nonchalance.
Donatella revealed in an interview a few years ago that she would not have to be dragged out of the Versace offices by her feet. She leaves with her head held high as an icon of industry and pop culture, comparable to Karl Lagerfeld or Vivienne Westwood. The 69-year-old’s new role is to represent Versace as Chief Brand Ambassador. In the house that she and her brother once built, Donatella thus remains the glamorous hostess and will continue to have a voice that carries weight in the future. Some success stories age better than others. Donatella Versace’s is one for the ages.
Addio, Donatella
Measured by the length of her high heels, no one leaves bigger shoes to fill: in March, the fashion house Versace announced that Donatella Versace was stepping down as Creative Director after 28 years. Her successor is Dario Vitale, who most recently kept the tills at Miu Miu purring. Donatella will remain associated with her company as Chief Brand Ambassador. Does this change also mean that the sale of Versace to Prada is complete? Rumors to this effect have been simmering as hot and patiently as a pot of sugo in recent weeks. We are curious to see what will be served up – both from the negotiating table and on the catwalk.
Different industry, just as blonde, just as legendary: read our portrait of Pamela Anderson here.
Fancy some fashion with a Dolce Vita touch? Here you can see what Versace has to offer.
