When the Met Gala draws its dress code from intellectual writing, it shows which stylists and celebrities have a good understanding of the text. What is the best way to implement this year’s Black Dandy concept – and what does it actually mean? We’ll tell you.
“To understand the present, you have to know history.” We didn’t engage in philosophical brain acrobatics ourselves for this quote, but stole it from the American astrophysicist Carl Sagan. Numerous politicians have done the same and parroted some version of it. But we are referring more to fashion. Because without context, even the simplest Met Gala motto sounds like you’ve accidentally enrolled in the wrong lecture on the wrong course.
Who remembers 2019, the fateful year in which the Met motto “Camp” made heads spin and the internet shake? Only one group rejoiced because Susan Sontag’s classic essay “Notes on Camp” served as the basic building block of the dress code for the fashion event of the year: students who were studying something to do with literature and regularly had to justify their unprofitable fields of study. “Notes on Camp”? Easy. Read a thousand times, interpreted, turned upside down and dissected down to the last letter.
It was a different story for some of our favorite celebrities and their stylists. Camp? Campsite? Oh no, it has something to do with standing out and overdoing it, but in an ironic way. The confusion led to little missteps à la Karlie Kloss, who appeared in a simple golden dress and still posted on social media: “Looking camp right in the eye”. She looked more like a schoolgirl at the prom. I wonder what Lady Gaga, Queen of Camp par excellence, who theatrically peeled herself out of several layers over the course of the evening, thought of this?
Black dandyism and a history lesson
From K for Catholicism to K for Karl Lagerfeld, from punk to China to no motto at all – since 1995, the fashion happening of the year has given so much to talk about that it could fill books.
But now we’ve had enough of the past. It’s 2025 and the Met Gala dress code has once again made use of a text that belongs on everyone’s reading list: “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity” by Monica L. Miller. “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” is the gala’s motto, and “Tailored for You” is the official dress code. The gasps of the stylists and stars can be heard right up to this point. What is a black dandy, how do you honor the theme without falling into the dreaded cultural appropriation trap? Justified questions. Once again, a history lesson is in order.
In a nutshell, the theme is a tribute to the fashion heritage of Black men. An accompanying exhibition at the Met shows items of clothing, paintings and photographs that illustrate how Black men have dressed throughout history. It shows how important clothing and style have been in the formation of Black identities. This is the first time since 2003 that the accompanying exhibition has focused exclusively on menswear.
And who is this dandy now? The term “dandy” originally came from Europe and referred to middle-class men who enjoyed a lavish lifestyle: good food, art and socializing filled their days. The black dandy only emerged later – colonialism sends its regards. As slaves were often unable to choose what they wore, clothing was essential in shaping their own identity. It allowed Black men to rebel against the established norm of what a Black man should look like.
The dandy at the gala
In the 21st century, a Black Dandy could be anyone from the remarkable group of Met Gala hosts: Colman Domingo, Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton and A$AP Rocky lead through the evening as co-hosts, as does LeBron James, who serves as honorary co-chair. And since we’re only talking about men, there’s also a female version of the dandy: The dandizette traditionally wore pink shoes, a white dress and gloves.
Because this year’s motto focuses on menswear, you can expect to see heaps of suits – tailored to perfection, of course. And: not all suits are the same. Special shapes and creative combinations based on trends from past decades are also likely to be admired on the red carpet. How the individual invited guests implement the “Tailored for You” dress code remains exciting, as it invites them to maintain their personal style despite the motto.
Repeated criticism of the cultural appropriation and lack of inclusivity of the Met Gala and the institution itself persists. And the fashion industry as a whole continues to struggle with actually implementing inclusion and diversity and not just using them as bold buzzwords. Favoring labels by Black designers and Black stylists should be standard practice at this year’s Met Gala.
The exhibition at the Met runs until the end of October. You can read more about it here.
Photos: © pa picture alliance (dpa)
We have put together a list of what to wear off the red carpet in the coming season.
