Susanne Kölbli has been working for Thomas Sabo for 30 years. As Creative Director and right-hand man of Thomas Sabo himself. In this interview, she talks to us about her time at the company, trends and the development of the brand and explains why she wears more than just a bracelet on her own wrist.
FACES: It’s 11 o’clock. What have you done so far today?
Susanne Kölbli: I got up at 6 a.m., my yoga coach visited me at home at 7.30 a.m. and we practiced together for an hour. Then I changed my clothes and walked into the studio. I do this every morning as I only live about 20 minutes away.
F: How nice!
SK: Yes, that’s it. And I do yoga every day. It does me the world of good and is my balance to work, so to speak. During the day, I’m busy with meetings, answering emails and making phone calls.
Q: So it’s a normal working day. But when you design a new collection, the process is different, isn’t it?
SK: To be honest, it’s a very fluid process for us. We are actually constantly working on developing new collections. First, we create a trend analysis, which I then discuss with Mr. Sabo. We make trend boards and theme suggestions, which we discuss as a team, and if we can reach an agreement, we produce sketches of individual pieces of jewelry. Everything is questioned and discussed again and again until the designs meet Mr. Sabo’s expectations. The first samples are then produced.
Q: What are the current jewelry trends?
SK: People still attach great importance to personalizing their jewelry. Jewelry is increasingly an expression of individual personality. Bracelets have become the norm. As many layers as possible, on top of each other, next to each other and with each other. I really like this trend, you can collect numerous pieces and combine materials and colors with each other. In this way, the collection evolves with life.
Q: What do you wear on your arm?
SK: I wear the most colorful mix ever. (laughs) It includes a lot from our own collection, the new pieces from the Karma Beads collection for example, some Love Bridge bracelets with engraving, some mementos from the past, from my mother for example. When I’m somewhere I like, I buy something new to remind me of that place or that moment. I have some bracelets from Capri, for example. I wear many pieces all the time, others I adapt to my outfit of the day.
Q: Do you have a favorite piece?
SK: My personalized karma bracelet, which I designed according to my wishes and my strengths and weaknesses. That accompanies me every day. And of course my wedding ring! (laughs)
Q: Do you remember your first piece of jewelry?
SK: My godfather gave me a charm bracelet for my christening, made of silver with very small enameled animals on it.
Q: Is there a piece of jewelry that everyone must have?
SK: I find this “must” very difficult. But a woman should definitely own a pearl necklace, it is an absolute skin flatterer. In my opinion, however, there is no universal piece of jewelry. You should wear jewelry where it suits you best. Those with beautiful earlobes emphasize them with large hoops, while others prefer to show off their slender neck with a necklace. You should wear what your heart is set on, that’s probably the most important thing.
Q: Are there any mistakes that can be made with jewelry?
SK: You can never say never. It always depends on contemporary tastes and individual preferences. At some point you say ‘Yuck, terrycloth socks and sandals are disgusting’, and a season later Prada shows exactly that in its campaigns. There is a certain aesthetic in everything. In many cases, even ugly things are interesting and beautiful in their own special way.
Q: Before you venture into a collection. Where do you get your inspiration?
SK: I have the key data from current collections. What was successful, what was not. But my favorite thing is to look at people on the street.
Q: From top to toe?
SK: Exactly, I pay attention to the whole look. How are people dressed, are their clothes comfortable, or do they struggle with high heels and belts? I always ask myself the question: What do people want? I am also interested in the process from the designers’ designs on the catwalk to the presentation in the magazines and the selection of buyers. But the most important thing is still what people end up wearing and not just buying. That’s what I pay the most attention to.
Q: This process has changed a lot in recent years thanks to social media. Does that make your work easier or more difficult?
SK: It doesn’t necessarily make the work more difficult, it changes it. Previously, trends were much more clearly defined and mostly by magazines. It was printed in black and white. Now everything is more complex, you no longer recognize a clear line, but rather see snapshots. But I think we have it a little easier with jewelry than labels do with their clothing. Jewelry is very personal and is not always bought as a fashion accessory, but as a reminder of certain moments in life. And such pieces stand above the trends. These emotions – love, affection, friendship – are constant.
Q: So jewelry is actually independent of trends?
SK: Yes, that’s how I see it.
Q: With your different collections – Sterling Silver, Charm Club, Fine Jewellery – you manage to meet the needs of consumers and have something for everyone. What is the difference when you design something for Charm Club, for example, compared to the design process at Fine Jewellery?
SK: The buyers are different, as are the styles. Charm Club is very young, playful, colorful, fun and easy to understand. The Fine Jewellery collection is a little more grown-up and intellectual, so you also need a certain feel for the jewelry and a different understanding.
Q: This diversity is also a basic component of the success of the Thomas Sabo brand.
SK: Definitely!
Q: And you work very closely with Thomas Sabo. How would you describe him as a person?
SK: Mr. Sabo is a visionary, a bundle of energy and the driving force behind the company.
Q: I got to know him as a very likeable person.
SK: It is. He knows exactly what he wants and where he wants to go. He is very clear in his opinion and has a vision of what he wants to do with his company.
Q: And you are practically his right-hand man! You have been working for him for almost 30 years.
SK: I get on very well with Mr. Sabo, we had a rapport right from the start. Over the 30 years, we have set numerous goals together, which we have worked towards and always pulled together. We both knew exactly where we wanted to go. Mr. Sabo has given a great deal of his life energy for this and continues to do so today.
Q: What were your personal highlights during these years?
SK: My marriage! (laughs)
Q: A beautiful declaration of love to your husband!
SK: My life has been shaped by three men: my father, my husband and Thomas Sabo. And I get on well with all three of them, they back me up and support me. They spurred me on and got everything out of me that I could.
Q: A perfect interplay!
SK: And all three play a very important role in my life. It’s great that they were able to experience the opening of the first stores or the launch of the individual lines with me. Being able to share such moments with them is very touching. I am also very touched by the moments when I see people wearing our jewelry on the street. Then I’m happy, because moments like that make a day something very special.
Q: Thomas Sabo is a real universe. In addition to the jewelry lines, there are also perfumes and watches. What is still missing?
SK: There is certainly another accessories area that could be tackled. We are thinking about it, but there are no concrete plans yet.
Q: You have a demanding job. How do you relax – apart from your morning yoga class?
SK: At the cooking pot. (laughs)
Q: Are you more of a cook or an eater?
SK: Both. (laughs) To come back to your question: I like to cook or read a book, or look out to sea to relax.
Q: Where do you like to look at the sea?
SK: On Sylt.
Q: And if you can’t make it to Sylt, what do you treat yourself to?
SK: A Chanel handbag. (laughs)
Q: Are you saving up for a new bag or something else?
SK: Not on a bag, but on a chandelier, to be honest.
F: How do you describe your personal style?
SK: Boho hippie rock chic! (laughs)
Q: Almost once up and down the collection.
SK: Exactly!