It was a neck-and-neck race for the Zalando Sustainability Award. ISO.POETISM BY TOBIAS BIRK NIELSEN finally convinced the jury and secured first place. We talk to the winner about his show in Copenhagen, the fashion industry and what urgently needs to change in it.
FACES: What is so special about Copenhagen Fashion Week compared to others?
Tobias Birk Nielsen: Copenhagen is our home and being able to show our collection here is therefore something very special. Our shows have already taken place in Berlin’s Berghain or the Contemporary Art Centre in Vilnius, but to be able to be here in Copenhagen and with the support of Zalando is indescribable. In addition, sustainability plays a very special role at Copenhagen Fashion Week; it ensures that the standards of sustainable fashion are adhered to, which is one of the things that sets it apart from other fashion weeks. This is inspiring and we are extremely proud to be part of it.
Q: How do you implement sustainability in your collection?
TBN: A sustainable approach is a matter of course for our work. My connection to nature is very strong and I think it should be treated like a good friend. We should think about how we ourselves want to be treated and then transfer this to nature. We are constantly experimenting with new techniques and learning how to combine fashion and environmental awareness. There is a huge amount of catching up to do when it comes to sustainable fabrics, but it’s great to see how bigger steps can be taken season after season. We produce the majority of our collection in Italy and follow the value chain very closely to ensure that everything and everyone is treated ethically. We also use recycled polyester and use our fabrics from stock to prevent material waste. In addition to the various techniques, we also try to improve the dyeing process step by step. We achieve this, for example, by using only cold water for dyeing, which allows us to dye more garments with the same amount of dye. This reduces emissions by half. The colorants we use are also exclusively natural.
Q: The Zalando Sustainability Award is a step towards making the fashion industry more sustainable. What needs to happen for more fashion labels to take the sustainable path?
TBN: On the one hand, consumers and labels need to be better informed. On the other hand, it’s also about innovation and the product range. Despite consumers’ growing awareness of sustainability, attitudes towards price have not really changed. The majority of consumers are still not prepared to accept the consequences in terms of price, which in turn makes it more difficult for fashion labels to work with sustainable fabrics because they are automatically more expensive. Sometimes I have to reject an innovative fabric for a collection simply because it would increase the price of the final garment to a level where we can’t position ourselves. I think it is very important to actually make sustainability affordable. This is a challenge, especially for smaller labels. Education and information about sustainability are also very important, as this field is still very new for many fashion companies. Of course, things like the Zalando Sustainability Award are a great incentive to invest time and money in improving our industry.
Q: What is the biggest challenge in switching to sustainable production?
TBN: Unfortunately, being sustainable costs quite a lot. Not only in financial terms, but also in terms of time. It takes a lot of knowledge and time to bring about the necessary changes in production and in the entire supply and value chain. For a small label and small companies, this can actually be very difficult, especially when many manufacturers and suppliers demand large minimum order quantities, which can defeat the purpose of producing something from sustainable materials. The problems can be overwhelming at first, but it’s worth sticking with it. You have to find the right partners and employees, then anything is possible.
Q: What is your inspiration for the current collection?
TBN: Our current collection AW22′ THE ECHOES WHICH WE REMAIN (11)* was inspired by a volcanic eruption and its devastating effects on the environment. What that does to a country is indescribable. However, the great catastrophe is then followed by a miracle: fertile soil filled with nutrients that then provide a home for new plants and flowers. Life picks up speed again, hope germinates and a new generation emerges. The materials, prints and quotes in the collection strongly reflect the theme.
Q: How do you envision the fashion industry in ten years’ time?
TBN: That’s a difficult question, because fashion is constantly changing. However, I hope that our industry will no longer be one of the most environmentally damaging in ten years’ time and that sustainability will be a core value. I look forward to many innovations and improvements within our consumer behavior as well as creativity in terms of environmental responsibility.
Q: What is the biggest problem for independent fashion labels at the moment?
TBN: Unfortunately, Covid-19 has taken its toll on many companies. Small, independent design studios in particular are feeling the effects of the stores being closed for several months and the limited workforce. We are very much looking forward to hopefully putting this difficult phase behind us soon and meeting our customers in person again instead of just communicating via screens.
Q: What can each individual do to make the industry more sustainable?
TBN: Find out what an ethically sustainable product is and, in principle, buy from labels that stand for these values. Sustainability has so many meanings, and I think it’s up to everyone to find out for themselves what is valuable to them. I prefer to use the term mindful rather than sustainable because it better shows what we can do here and now. Of course, each label is responsible for its own collection, but the consumer is just as important, as it determines demand and thus sets standards and limits. It is important to ask the right questions when buying a new product and make sure you are happy with the way it has been made.
Q: You won the Zalando Sustainability Award. How do independent brands like yours benefit from such initiatives?
TBN: I still can’t quite believe it, it’s been such a long journey! An initiative like the Zalando Sustainability Award gives us as a small label the opportunity to get our message out louder. As a start-up, it can be difficult to reach a wider audience, so we are all the more grateful for this award. We are very much looking forward to expanding our partnership with Zalando and further advancing our sustainability goals.
