There was a lot going on at the Fashion Weeks. In addition to the fashion, we took a particularly close look at those who presented the clothes and accessories in the first place: the Fashion Week models. We have the statistics behind the fashion.
Are the models particularly thin this season?
The most important topic at the four major fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris this season was: “Are the models particularly thin this season?” In comparison to last season, the lack of casting numbers for body-hugging models could not be overlooked.
This season, it was reported that the focus on including models in medium or large sizes has dropped by 24%. The Milan catwalks were the worst offenders. Only 13.56% of shows this season employed a non-standard sized model and 77% fewer “curvy models” than in London. The greatest size diversity was found on the London catwalks, where 39% of the shows featured curvy models, compared to 37% in New York and 25% in Paris.
Is it due to the resurgence of Y2K fashion? The fashion industry seemed to be on the mend after the turn of the millennium; is it now on the decline?
Controversial opinions
Tom Ford, who launched his eponymous collection in 2005, was widely criticized for his unapologetic views on body diversity on the catwalk. Sure, his designs are adaptable to a wide range of women’s bodies, but catwalk models have to be a standard size. “There’s a practical reason that most of the models are the same size, and that’s a sample collection,” Ford told WWD. You make a sample collection [nach] of a standardized selection of measurements for models. One reason why people show a size on the catwalk: I can’t do that; eight hours before the show, when I’m at a fitting and I decide on a particular girl, I make an outfit for her. My clothes are tailor-made. They are all produced in the same size.
According to the late André Leon Talley, the “Robin to Anna Wintour’s Batman” before they fell out in 2018, “Miss Anna doesn’t like fat people”. Something she seemed to be able to ignore despite many reproaches.
Karl Lagerfeld had an open disdain for women who were not a size zero or two, and this was a consistent theme throughout his tenure. Lagerfeld openly supported the industry’s unspoken practice of only hiring thin models for shows and campaigns, arguing that “nobody wants to see curvy women,” as he told German magazine Focus in 2009. Lagerfeld rejected criticism of the fashion industry, which portrayed ultra-thin models as glamorous, as irresponsible and insensitive. Fashion is about “dreams and delusions”, said Lagerfeld in the same interview.
Body diversity during the shows of the FW 2023/24 season
In Milan, only eight out of fifty-nine shows featured plus-size models. Marco Rambaldi’s figures were the highest. This season, Tess McMillan and Ashley Graham, who are regularly seen on the Dolce & Gabbana catwalks, were the only two plus-size models to walk for the brand.
There were 88 shows in Paris, 22 of which featured plus-size models. As all of Ester Manas’ garments are offered in one size, there were many plus-size models on her Paris catwalk. Four medium-sized models were on show at Chanel, but no plus-size women.
In New York, models in non-standard sizes appeared at 21 of 57 shows. Christian Siriano’s catwalk featured the greatest variety of model sizes.
Compared to other cities, London was the most inclusive, with 17 out of 44 shows appealing to women of all sizes. Sinéad O’Dwyer’s catwalk show featured the most curvy models.
High-end designers and brands are using plus-size models to appease critics of this ongoing debate in the fashion industry. Cuve washing is the term used to describe this type of misleading marketing strategy. Fashion and trends are changing fast, but the industry is still reluctant to include medium or curvy models on catwalks and in editorial campaigns.
The five curviest Fashion Week models of the season
Alva Claire: 16 shows
The Jamaican-American model is about to make a name for herself in the fashion world. She was selected for Rihanna’s first Savage x Fenty runway show in 2019. The 32-year-old gained worldwide recognition and made fashion history as one of the first plus-size models to walk for Versace. This season she walked in sixteen shows for designers such as Nina Ricci, GCDS and Altuzarra, to name but a few. Your Instagram
Jill Kortleve: 9 shows
The Dutch plus-size model has made a name for herself in the fashion industry in recent years. Kortleve began her modeling career in 2017 and has since worked with various major brands such as H&M, Nike, Alexander McQueen and Jean Paul Gaultier. This season she walked as a Fashion Week model at nine shows for several well-known brands such as Versace, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Coperni and Carolina Herrera. Your Instagram
Devyn Garcia: 4 shows
The 23-year-old half-Cuban from Miami made her catwalk debut for Jacquemus and has been a Victoria’s Secret ambassador since 2021. This season, Garcia has walked for Chloe, Alexander McQueen, Max Mara and Nensi dojaka. Your Instagram
Noor Mutsaers: 5 shows
Noor Mutsaers made her catwalk debut at London Fashion Week 2022 at Pyo’s Spring/Summer 2022 show. The 20-year-old Dutch model, who admits that modeling was never on her radar, has been named one of the top newcomers on the modeling scene. The five shows she has walked this season include Altuzurra and Carolina Herrera. Your Instagram
Tess McMillan: 5 shows
Tess McMillan, 23, was discovered by photographer Heather Hazzan on Instagram. Her characteristic features include red hair, green eyes, tall height, a beautiful face and a wild personality that makes it impossible not to notice her. McMillan, a newcomer to the industry, was featured on the July/August 2021 cover of Vogue Ukraine. This season she walked for Dolce & Gabanna, Cecile Bahnson, Coach, Fashion East and Yuhan Wang. Your Instagram
The five best-booked Fashion Week models of the season
Victoria Fawole: 29 shows
The catwalk shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris for Caroline Herrera, Fendi, Etro, Givenchy, Dior, Hermes and many more filled the Nigerian beauty’s calendar in September and October. Fawole has not only appeared on the covers of Genevieve and La Mode magazines, but also in advertising campaigns for companies such as Payporte and Jumia. The 21-year-old has already made a name for herself in the fashion industry and is one of the most sought-after Fashion Week models for high-end labels and foreign agencies. Your Instagram
Alaato Jazyper: 28 shows
Although the South Sudanese model Alaato Jazyper has only been known for a short time, she has already walked the catwalk for Chanel, Balenciaga, Valentino and Louis Vuitton. Jazyper’s big breakthrough came when she was signed exclusively by Saint Laurent for the fall/winter 2022 collection. With her striking facial features and confident gait, Alaato is undoubtedly an up-and-coming fashion sensation. Your Instagram
Akuol Deng Atem: 27 shows
Akuol Deng Atem is one of the most sought-after Fashion Week models of the season due to her beautiful androgynous looks, striking facial features and tall, slim body. She was born in Ethiopia to South Sudanese parents and spent her early years in Nakuru, Kenya. Despite her young career, Atem has already worked for several major labels. Balenciaga, Balmain, Chloe and Thom Browne were just some of the brands she walked the catwalk for this season. Your Instagram
Yilan Hua: 26 shows
Chinese-born model Yilan Hua made her catwalk debut at the Schiaparelli couture show in 2019. In 2023, her rapid rise will make her one of the top 10 female Fashion Week models. This season, she walked the catwalk for numerous high-end designers, including Hermes, Balmain, Alberta Ferretti, Ermanno Scervino, Etro and many more. Your Instagram
Rachel Marx: 26 shows
The debut of the now 27-year-old from Frankfurt took place at the Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018 show. Less than a month after her debut, she opened the Victoria Beckham Fall/Winter 2018-2019 fashion show. Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Chanel, Dior and many more have sent them onto the catwalk this season. Your Instagram
More of this: age-appropriate Fashion Week models
In recent years, more and more designers and brands have been showing models of different ages on the catwalk. The diversity of ages on the catwalks is a good sign of inclusivity and diversity in the fashion industry. One hundred and seventy shows have booked older models this season. The most admired model, Maye Musk, 74, walked for Philipp Plein in Milan. Pamela Anderson ran for Boss. Vivienne Westwood has been showing ageing models for years. Silke Golding, 57, ran for Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. Marie Seguy, a 47-year-old model and jewelry designer, walked for Akris in Paris.
Clothing is only one aspect of the fashion business. It’s no longer just about clothes and trends. The fashion industry has long been a rallying point for much-needed social change. Vivienne Westwood was one of the best examples of a designer who brought about significant change in the industry by rebelling against the status quo. Diversity and inclusion are crucial in the fashion industry. The fashion industry is a powerful force for positive change and social acceptance.
You can find even more information, trends, products and more from the catwalk here.
