Elena Spirina builds scented castles. The kind whose towers are home to memories of important moments. Because nothing brings the past back to the present as sensually as an unforgettable aroma. In 2020, Elena founded the perfume Maison Anomalia Paris in her native France. Sustainable production and a luxurious result are the brand’s declared aim. But also the freedom of customers to create their own personal fragrance combination. In this interview, the Creative Director of Anomalia Paris takes us on an olfactory journey through time and around the world – from French gyms to a car rally through the African desert. She also reveals which perfume faux pas are best avoided.
FACES: What smells remind you of your childhood?
Elena Spirina: The smell of my gym where I practiced rhythmic gymnastics comes to mind – a mixture of rubber balls, carpet and the wooden floor on which we rehearsed choreographies. Then there is the salty scent of the sea air, as I grew up near the ocean; the crisp, fresh aroma of green apples from the garden. The scent of Chanel N°5 perfume and my grandmother’s bold red lipstick are unforgettable. Likewise the scent of the Lancôme hand cream my mother always used and, strangely enough, the smell of motorcycle gasoline.
F: At what age did you start wearing perfume? Can you remember your first fragrance?
ES: I started wearing perfume quite early. Around the age of five or six, although not intentionally. My first experiences were with my mother’s and grandmother’s perfumes – “Chanel N°5”, “Diorissimo” by Dior and “Poison” by Dior. Later, during my school years, my very first personal perfume was “Anaïs Anaïs”, a gift from my boyfriend.
F: Before you founded Anomalia Paris, you worked in the film and marketing industry. Tell us more about it.
ES: I founded one of the leading agencies for marketing communications in the early 2000s. We managed marketing and advertising campaigns for numerous major brands. Interestingly, I played a key role in the launch of Armani Privé fragrances in Moscow. Subsequently, I created a “bible” for Armani Privé fragrances – a luxurious book with captivating stories and stunning visuals. Our work also extended to organizing exclusive private events on a global scale, working with household names such as Cirque du Soleil, the Scorpions, Dita Von Teese and Preston Bailey, as well as Bruno Aveillan for video advertising. On one particular occasion we worked with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, which marked the beginning of a long lasting friendship. We also produced award-winning commercials, documentaries for television and music videos for various artists.
“If you can see it, you can film it; a similar philosophy applies to perfumery.”
Q: How does your previous work in these areas help you now in the perfume industry?
ES: Everything I have done in my life is closely linked to art – including sport. Rhythmic gymnastics, for example, is one of the most artistic sports in the world. But just to be clear: I’m not a perfumer, I’m a creative director. I draw a parallel with cinematography, where the saying goes: if you can see it, you can film it; a similar philosophy applies to perfumery. I visualize the fragrance and perceive its aroma even before it exists. This ability allows me to create the most precise and detailed creative briefings for the master perfumers we work with.
F: What were some of the initial challenges in launching the brand? How did you overcome them?
ES: Time. Time is our biggest challenge. I prefer to work quickly and efficiently, but our industry moves slowly due to the specifics of production and certification. Even reformulating a fragrance – a process that requires creativity – takes time as it also requires a maturation period. This can mean waiting for weeks, sometimes months, without any certainty about the end result. I often say that life is short – I want everything, and I want it fast. However, I had to learn to respect time. And that is still the biggest challenge I have to overcome.
F: You play an important role in the creative process of perfume design. But as the founder of Anomalia Paris, you are also responsible for managing the company. How do you reconcile these conflicting aspects?
ES: Good question! One of the main pillars of Anomalia’s DNA is duality. I feel like I have multiple personalities within me. One is deeply artistic and creative, while the other is business-oriented. One is kind and patient, while the other is demanding and assertive. Balancing these traits can be a challenge, but I really enjoy it. Sometimes I can almost physically feel my brain switching between creativity and finance or marketing and production. To stay effective, I allocate certain days for different tasks – some for creative work, some for finance, some for marketing – and I make sure I have some time for myself too.
F: You have a large collection of rare and old perfumes. Tell us about it – what are some of your favorite fragrances? Which ones are particularly unusual?
ES: There are a few old fragrances in my collection that I really appreciate. These include a “Chanel N°5” cologne, which was released during Mademoiselle Coco Chanel’s lifetime, and a first edition of “Diorissimo”. These are timeless classics – iconic and fundamental to the world of fragrances. The rare bottles of Mitsouko also hold a special place on my list of favorites. My mother was never as addicted to fragrances as I am, but one day she gave me her entire meticulously kept collection. She had kept it in perfect condition for years, which makes it even more precious to me. Her collection includes a variety of miniature perfumes, especially from Lancôme. These miniatures are by far the most priceless and unique treasures in my collection. I grew up surrounded by these delicate bottles and they are a part of my childhood memories. They still feel alive today, as if they carry the essence of those precious moments.
“Perfumes are an artistic expression – a personal game in which you can experiment freely.”
F: Layering, i.e. combining different fragrances, also plays a major role at Anomalia Paris. What should you bear in mind? Are there certain fragrances or techniques that work particularly well together?
ES: The important thing is freedom. Freedom, and freedom again. People often take the use of fragrances too seriously. But perfumes are an artistic expression – a personal game where you can experiment freely. You can mix as many fragrances as you like – it’s your choice and your creative playground. No one should dictate how you should use perfumes. However, there are a few basic guidelines to help you get started. For example, adding a floral scent to a woody or leathery perfume is almost always a safe choice – you really can’t go wrong. Musk in particular is incredibly easy to combine and goes with almost everything. With a little more experience, you can then experiment boldly by layering two or three complex scents at the same time to create unique blends. There are several recognized techniques, such as vertical application and parallel application. However, in my opinion, true layering is when you spray multiple fragrances on the same area so that they can fully blend and interact with each other. This blending process is where the real magic lies.
F: What are some perfume trends for the coming summer? And which fragrances will enjoy ever-increasing popularity?
ES: Red fruits, musk, tea-inspired fragrances and innovative oud styles characterize the trends for this year. Above all, it seems to be about creating positive and uplifting vibes with fragrances. Floral and sweet fragrances have an everlasting charm. While creativity can produce completely unique and unusual fragrances, sweet scents remain a perennial favorite around the world. Of course, preferences vary according to cultural influences. Some regions prefer light and airy fragrances, while others tend towards strong, deep and intense notes. Overall, the favorites are consistently sweet and fruity fragrances – they are timeless champions.
Q: What are the most common “perfume faux pas” to avoid?
ES: That’s a tricky question. One of the most common mistakes is choosing an extremely strong perfume with an overpowering scent. While some may enjoy the boldness, such intense scents can be overpowering for others. The excessive projection of a fragrance often detracts from its elegance and charm. For me, the true luxury of a perfume lies in its subtlety and sophistication – qualities that overpowering fragrances often lack. Interestingly, the market tends to favor potency, longevity and sillage, with many people gravitating towards strong fragrances. However, this trend often cancels out the essence of elegance and sophistication. For me, luxury embodies freedom – the ability to adapt and change. This includes being able to change your perfume several times a day to suit different occasions, just as you can change your outfit. Such versatility is difficult to achieve with very strong fragrances. The pursuit of longevity and sillage is therefore not the right approach when it comes to true sophistication and luxury. Nevertheless, there are times when we all long for something bolder and more assertive. Striking the right balance between personal preference and social consideration is key.
“For me, the true luxury of a perfume lies in its subtlety and sophistication.”
F: Your new perfume is called “Sahara 4800”. It is a collaboration between Anomalia Paris and the legendary Dakar Rally. How did this unexpected combination come about? And how do you create a fragrance inspired by a car race through the desert?
ES: The fragrance is inspired by the Dakar Rally – not directly by the race itself, but by three core elements that it represents: the sheer force of human will, the incomparable beauty of nature and the strength of advanced technology. The combination of these three pillars creates a truly captivating and unique universe. Behind this is also a very personal connection – my husband. He drove for the German X-Raid team and was twice world champion and Dakar winner with his Mini. I’ve always admired passionate, fearless people – those who achieve the seemingly impossible and constantly push their limits and those who have the intellect to master such a demanding game. This made “Sahara 4800” a very personal perfume and the only fragrance that I, as a perfumer, have attempted to create entirely on my own. I still have the original bottle that I composed. Eventually, however, I decided to pass this creative challenge on to the talented perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur. She captured the essence of my vision perfectly and created the final “Sahara 4800” in her very first attempt. This year, we took our vision one step further and supported the women of Dakar and the X-Raid team in Saudi Arabia at the Dakar 2025 Rally. My goal is to spread the energy of this experience worldwide and showcase these extraordinary women and men and their powerful stories to the world.
Q: What scent do you associate with your home?
ES: I am lucky enough to live in the south of France, nestled in the mountains, on the edge of the forest. I have a stunning garden full of white flowers, including magnolias and sakura. I also love the rain. The scent of damp earth mixed with the aroma of a garden in bloom is undoubtedly the scent of my home. And coffee, of course. I drink a lot of coffee.
Anomalia Paris
When the world was holding its breath, Elena Spirina immersed herself in the world of fragrances. During the pandemic, the entrepreneur launched Anomalia Paris. The Maison produces luxurious perfumes from sustainable production. The range is complemented by scented candles and room fragrances. Anomalia sees its creations as colors and the customer’s skin as a canvas: an individual combination of fragrances creates works of art that adapt to the occasion and the time of day.
Immerse yourself in the fragrance world of Anomalia Paris.
Photos: © Anomalia Paris
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