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Naples, situated on the gulf of the same name, is like a crystal whose facets shine anew in every light. In this living movie set, the story catches you at every turn, if you listen to it. Here you don’t rush through the alleyways, but stroll and indulge in dolce far niente for days on end. In general, you can find deadly sins everywhere in Naples, which is probably due to the good food and the beautiful people. It doesn’t matter, because somehow nowhere else do you feel as close to paradise as in Naples. A contradiction…? No, says Matteo Orilio, a native of Naples and our tour guide this month.
Living
Good costs. Naples is no different, so fans of embroidered curtains and golden door handles are best off staying in one of the Eurostars Excelsior, Royal Continental or Grand Hotel Vesuvio hotels. We can’t do much with luxury stuff, but we can do with the panoramic view, which is nowhere better in this city. If you prefer to invest your money in good food rather than accommodation, book a room at the Hotel Toledo or the Palazzo Esedra, whose location is unbeatable for an exploratory tour. Beautiful and inexpensive, that fits!
Hotels Eurostars Excelsior, Via Partenope, 48, 80121 Napoli, eurostarsexcelsior.com
Royal Continental, Via Partenope, 38/44, 80121 Napoli, royalgroup.it
Grand Hotel Vesuvio, Via Partenope, 45, 80121 Napoli, vesuvio.it
Hotel Toledo, Via Montecalvario, 15, 80134 Napoli, hoteltoledo.com
Palazzo Esedra, Piazzale Vincenzo Tecchio, 50, 80125 Napoli, palazzoesedra.it
Food
Nowhere does the food taste better than in Naples. Numerous restaurants and pizza stalls such as Da Nennella, Pizzeria Da Michele, Starita or Sorbillo provide the proof – because the only true pizza, the best, the right one, the only dough shop that really deserves the name pizza, can be found here. Another great place to indulge in gluttony is The Roof & Sky with its champagne bar and terrace. The best brunch is at Birdy’s Bakery, and if you want to eat afterwards, sit down for a cozy lunch at Capatoast.
Da Nennella, Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 103/104/105, 80134 Napoli
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139 Napoli, damichele.net
Pizzeria Starita, Via Materdei, 80136 Napoli, pizzeriestarita.it
Pizzeria Sorbillo, Via dei Tribunali, 32, 80134 Napoli, sorbillo.it
The Roof & Sky, Via Miseno, 80070 Bacoli NA, astecoecielo.it
Birdy’s Bakery, Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 14b, 80121 Napoli, birdysbakery.com
Capatoast, Via Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 64, Napoli, capatoast.it
Shopping
There are three streets to remember if you want to visit Naples’ most exclusive boutiques of the hottest Italian labels: Via dei Mille, Via Calabritto and Via Filangieri. In the historic center (Via Toledo, Corso Umberto) or along Via Libertà in Portici, there are many small stores selling handmade clothing, jewelry and beauty products. Scaramanzia is a small store on Via Carlo Poerio that sells all kinds of lucky charms typical of Naples. Art, photographs and pretty Neapolitan products are also available in the museum store in Largo Corpo Di Napoli.
Via dei Mille, Napoli
Via Calabritto, 80121 Napoli
Via Filangieri, Napoli
Via Libertà, Napoli
Scaramanzia, Via Carlo Poerio, 90/A, Napoli, scaramanzia.net
Largo Corpo Di Napoli, Largo Corpo di Napoli n°3, 80134 Napoli, museum-shop.it
Party
The Neapolitans know how to party properly! There are numerous clubs and discos all over the city that are well worth a visit in the evening. Nabilah is the coolest beach club and can be found on Via Romana Spiaggia, while Arenile Reload is also known for its good music and lively parties. Live music, DJ sets and the full show program are provided by the Duel Beat, also cool: Virgil Local Pub.
Nabilah, Via Romana Spiaggia, 15, Bacoli Napoli, nabilah.it
Arenile Reload, Via Coroglio, 14/b, Napoli, facebook.com
Duel Beat, Via Antiniana, 2/a, 80078 Pozzuoli Napoli
Virgil Local Pub, Napoli
Quarters
The hot spots in Naples and the coolest stores, bars and clubs are located around Piazza Bellini, Vomero, Chiaia and Bagnoli . Watch out for pickpockets! Unfortunately, they’re everywhere….
Piazza Bellini, 80138 Napoli
Vomero, Naples
Chiaia, Via Chiaia, 80132 Napoli
Bagnoli, Naples
© pa picture alliance
Must do
The museums PAN (Palazzo delle Arti Napoli), MADRE (Contemporary Art Museum) and MAV (Museo Archeologico Virtuale) are ideal for gaining a first impression of the city and its culture. Then it’s off to lunch at Da Nennella, where you can be entertained by the ironic conversations of the waiters. We quickly took a photo of Castel Sant’Elmo, a very special view. Castel dell’Ovo or Maschio Angioino are also worth a detour, as are excursions to Pompei or Ercolano or to the Solfatara volcanoes in Pozzuoli. If you have less time but more hunger, don’t leave the city without trying the typical Neapolitan cakes at La Sfogliatella, Il Baba or La Zeppola. Delicious!
PAN, Via dei Mille, 60, 80121 Napoli, comune.napoli.it
MADRE, Via Luigi Settembrini, 79, 80139 Napoli, madrenapoli.it
MAV, Via IV Novembre, 44, 80056 Ercolano Napoli, museomav.it
Da Nennella, Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 103/104/105, 80134 Napoli
Castel Sant’ Elmo, Via Tito Angelini, 22, 80129 Napoli, polomusealecampania.beniculturali.it
Castel dell’Ovo, Via Eldorado, 3, 80132 Napoli, comune.napoli.it
Maschio Angioino, Piazza Castello, Napoli, comune.napoli.it
Pompei, Naples
Ercolano,Napoli
Solfatara, Napoli
La Sfogliatella, Galleria Umberto I, 66, 80134 Napoli
Events
Rock! At PAN (Palazzo delle Arti Napoli)
03.09.
Music, film, literature, theater – this festival has everything that entertainment has to offer.
Via dei Mille, 60, 80121 Napoli
napolidavivere.it
ATTESA 1960-2016
until 24.10.
Retrospective of the works of Mimmo Jodice. Absolutely worth seeing!
Via Settembrini 79, 80139 Napoli
madrenapoli.it
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Matteo Orilio
is a visual designer and illustrator.
loves design, art and sport.
hates disorder and poor organization.
www.matteoorilio.com