Paris Fashion Week FW 2023/24

Everything you need to know about Fashion Week FW 2023/24 can be found here. We have the trends, the gossip and the full recap of fashion week in Paris.

Paris Fashion Week marked the end of a hectic fashion season that felt busier than ever. Harris Reed presented a gender-neutral Nina Ricci collection, while Daniel Roseberry designed the first Schiaparelli collection. Christian Louboutin celebrated the 30th anniversary of his famous red soles, and Andreas Kronthaler honored the late Vivienne Westwood with the first collection since her death. Coperni tried to repeat last season’s viral moment and Stella McCartney conveyed a strong message by presenting live horses on her catwalk.

The coolest brands and their collections for the FW 2023/24 season

Dior: effortless

Compared to the previous fall/winter collections, Dior’s 96-look fall/winter collection is lighter, more minimalist and less dramatic. The collection consists of rumpled suits, pleated skirts and party dresses and remains true to Dior’s signature silhouettes. The black garments with their crumpled fabrics lend the collection a refreshing lightness and give the impression that the models are floating down the catwalk. This effect is further enhanced by pleated skirts and dresses with a brushstroke print. For decades, the stereotypical Frenchwoman has fascinated many people with her enigmatic charisma and fashionable choices. In this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri embodies the effortlessly elegant style of the Parisian and gives it a sophisticated touch.

Find out what else we particularly liked about the Dior show here.

Saint Laurent: 80s glam rock

Renowned fashion house Saint Laurent, known for innovations such as the Mondrian Shift, Le Smoking and the transparent dress, continues to uphold its heritage of empowering women through clothing. With razor-sharp cuts, bold blazers with dramatic epaulettes and figure-hugging pencil skirts, the collection by creative director Anthony Vaccarello emphasizes top-heavy designs. Several models wear large scarves draped over their structured shoulders, creating a textural contrast. The collection is reminiscent of the glam rock aesthetic of the 1980s with its lavish use of leather, silk and velvet.

You can find the entire Saint Laurent show here.

Hermès: comfort meets elegance

The Hermès autumn/winter 2023/24 collection perfectly captures the essence of the season with its rich winter colors, deep reds, copper and amourette browns, brass yellow and rose gold. Inspired by nature, the autumnal hues come to life in designs that offer comfort and elegance in the colder months. The versatile garments can be effortlessly combined with any winter occasion. Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski skillfully combines the Hermès tradition with a modern sensibility in this innovative collection. The result: an opulent collection suitable for everyday use.

We attended the Hermès show, you can find the full report and the coolest looks here.

Louis Vuitton: the embodiment of French fashion

The collection is a time capsule that captures the effortlessly elegant style of famous French women from the past and present, enhancing and redefining it with a modern twist. She not only alludes to the essence of French fashion, she truly embodies it. Traditional styles include long, thin belts that are knotted at the end and reach above the knee, as well as comfortable coats and blazers that are combined with floor-length pants. Nicolas Ghesquière skillfully explores the elements that make up the French style. This collection was more accessible and casual than usual, without neglecting the high-fashion elements typical of the fashion house.

Want to know more about the Louis Vuitton collection? Click here for our report.

Chanel: pure french

Coco Chanel’s favorite flower, the camellia, is the focus of the Chanel autumn-winter 2023/24 collection. The catwalk featured a large white camellia, while the clothes were adorned with playful details, with the camellia always taking center stage. Flowers adorned coats, dresses and white lace tights, while Coco’s favorite flower was draped on the garments. True to Chanel’s philosophy, the collection was absolutely wearable and embodied Parisian style.

You can read more about Chanel’s FW 23/24 show in our report here.

Chloé: clothes over costume

Gabriela Hearst was inspired by the Renaissance painter Artemisia Gentileschi for Chloé’s fall/winter 2023/24 collection. The collection included a wealth of dresses, pants and skirts in shearling and smooth leather. Fine lace knitwear, wafer-thin minimalist boho dresses and capes appeared on the catwalk. Vertical leather stripes in yellow, black and white and harlequin patterns subtly alluded to the Middle Ages towards the end of the show. Overall, the collection was a statement for the coming season, where clothes are valued over costumes and good practice over bad.

Check out the FW 23/24 show from Chloé here.

Alexander McQueen: dark and explosive

Alexander McQueen’s fall/winter 2023/24 collection presents a unique and captivating blend of dark, dramatic gothic romance. The evening wear shone in flaming crimson and silver tones. A black beaded dress with a ruffled hem brought back memories of Alexander McQueen’s ruby red Joan of Arc dress, while asymmetrical ruffles and patterns were reminiscent of giant orchids. Naomi Campbell, who wore a classic black dress with a scalloped-neck bustier and a single statement earring, led a procession of immaculate black suits, white shirts, black ties and pinstripes fashioned into jackets and sculpted strapless dresses. Sharp cuts were shown for both women and men, embodying a dark and explosive fantasy. The bottom line: Sarah Burton always knows how to impress.

Click here for the Alexander McQueen show.

Akris: Pattie Boyd, Biba Boutique and Studio 54

Akris has presented its fall/winter 2023 collection, celebrating the brand’s 100th anniversary. With this collection, creative director Albert Kriemler paid tribute to women and their rights to freedom of speech and assembly as well as the pursuit of happiness. The aesthetic of the collection was inspired by the mood of the 1970s, a time when the feminist movement was flourishing, and is reminiscent of the style of fashion icon Pattie Boyd, ex-wife of Eric Clapton and George Harrison and the “it” girl of the era. Gold metallic dresses and glittering sequin suits represented disco elements. Retro colors and prints ran through the entire collection, including floral patterns that adorned flowing chiffon dresses with shearling gilets. The collection was complemented by traditional pieces such as double-breasted, checked trouser suits.

Fireworks! Watch the Akris show here.

Isabel Marant: casual and sexy

Isabel Marant’s collections are best described by the theme of her current fall/winter collection 23: longing and disorder. It’s fascinating how she combines cozy and sexy, casual and sophisticated. Marant has perfected this fusion of comfort, sensuality and desire. A lot of leather is used in the collection. Cozy, loose-fitting oversized sweaters in earth tones, daring blazers with square shoulders and seductive dresses (some embellished with crystals) provide variety. Marant’s collections never disappoint, as the designer always creates something new, remaining true to her brand’s identity while remaining unique and trendy.

Curious? Then watch the entire Isabel Marant show here.

The shows we craned our necks for

Stella McCartney and the wild horses

At her fall/winter 23/24 show, animal rights activist Stella McCartney surprised with an unconventional presentation. Under the guidance of Jean-Francois Pignon (the horse whisperer), seven wild horses entered the covered Manège de l’École Militaire. The horses trotted playfully alongside the models. McCartney had a good reason for sending the horses onto the catwalk: she wanted to draw attention to her designs and show that fashion can be ethical and luxurious without harming animals. The unique presentation of wild animals, living, breathing and interacting, delivered a memorable message and was undoubtedly a highlight of Paris Fashion Week.
“There’s so much leather, fur and feathers on the catwalk, especially in winter,” McCartney told the Associated Press. “I wanted to show that fashion can be luxurious without destroying anything.”
Stella McCartney’s latest collection features an intriguing mix of Y2K and preppy equestrian style. In addition to horse prints, graphics and equestrian motifs, the collection also underlines McCartney’s preference for chains, which is reminiscent of her spring/summer 2000 collection for Chloé and the popular Falabella bag. Classic silhouettes such as two-piece suits and midi skirts are emphasized and thigh-high boots are combined with mini dresses. Oversized blazers and coats feature checks inspired by horse blankets, while a neutral color palette is occasionally interrupted by bold orange-red tones:

Watch the whole Stella McCartney show here.

Coperni: who let the robots out?

For the finale of the Coperni show in September 2022, technicians created a fabric dress that was spray-painted on Bella Hadid and caused a stir on social media. The reactions ranged from praise to criticism. Coperni was determined to outdo himself last season and had to come up with something equally impressive. With AI being such a popular topic at the moment, it seemed like a brilliant idea to send robots down the catwalk with the models to captivate the audience. Although the concept received thousands of likes and shares, it didn’t achieve anywhere near the same level of coverage as the previous season.

Form your own opinion and take a look at Coperni’s catwalk show FW 23/24 here.

Balenciaga: everything back to square one

Balenciaga’s shows are always highly anticipated due to the spectacular sets, the viral moments and the apocalyptic ideas of creative director Demna Gvasalia. But this season, the anticipation was great for other reasons. It is the design house’s first catwalk show since the 2022 advertising campaign, which angered the world with images of children touching BDSM-inspired products. Since then, the brand has been relatively quiet, despite numerous high-profile apologies. Balenciaga’s fall/winter 2023 show was modest. The catwalk was kept simple and there were no celebrities in the front row. Black, well-cut garments dominated the collection. Balenciaga logos were not to be seen. The entire collection conveyed remorse. The brand refocuses on fashion and repositions itself. Demna skipped the applause at the end of the show and held back. It remains to be seen whether the brand will be accepted by the fashion world again.

Take a look at the Balenciaga show here.

The most important trends of the FW 2023/24 season

The most striking trend that fall-winter 2023 will forever be known for is bold shoulders, especially blazers. Saint Laurent popularized this trend in the 1980s, and it is once again an important part of the St. Laurent collection this season. Pick a coat: Trench coats, maxi coats, faux fur coats and oversized coats were everywhere on the catwalks. Flowers and floral details were a refreshing detail at Balenciaga, Akris, Chanel and Dior. Black dominated, but neutral beige tones made up a large part of the collections for the coming winter season, and pastel shades were seen at brands such as Victoria Beckham, Loewe and Valentino. A recurring theme: sharp cuts. This season, the focus was on trying to define and capture the style of dress of the chic French woman.

The celebrities

As Paris continues to be considered a global fashion hub, it’s no surprise that A-listers and brand ambassadors from all over the world flock to the city to attend the fashion shows and immerse themselves in the vibrant fashion party scene.

Leonardo DiCaprio was a guest at the popular restaurant and club Le Piaf during Paris Fashion Week with models Maya Jama and Rose Bertram. According to The Sun, DiCaprio and Jama have often been together, prompting rumors of a romance. The 48-year-old Oscar winner was also seen having dinner with model Gigi Hadid in Milan the week before. Although rumors of a romance between Hadid and DiCaprio have been circulating for some time, both deny any romantic involvement. Rose Bertram was photographed with a friend arriving at the Costes hotel and restaurant, a celebrity hotspot during fashion week where DiCaprio was staying. Her close friend, actor Jared Leto, who was also staying at the Hotel Costes, was seen dining and partying with groups of friends at the hotel’s famous restaurant. Leto, who is known for his eccentric style, made a statement with his outfits when he attended the Vivienne Westwood and Givenchy shows.

The Front Row

Big names such as Elle Macpherson, Charlize Theron and Jisoo from Blackpink were spotted in the front row of the Dior show this season.

At Saint Laurent, long black coats seemed to be the order of the day. Dua Lipa and Charlotte Gainsbourg wore floor-length leather coats with hoods. Olivia Wilde also wore an ensemble that reached down to her ankles and enhanced the coat.
Musicians Avril Lavigne and Tyga were spotted holding hands and kissing at the Mugler x Hunter Schafer party. The representatives of both parties did not comment on the rumors about a relationship between the two. Georgia May Jagger was among the celebrity guests at the party.

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