The 1990s marked the rise of a label-driven youth culture in which branding defined identity and Diesel jeans became social currency. For the Diesel fall/winter 2026/27 menswear and womenswear collection, this feeling reappears – not as a retro trip, but as a further development with calculated friction.
Diesel transformed the runway into an exuberant, densely layered installation that made four decades of provocation visible. Almost too much – and therefore effective. But nothing was accidental. Under Glenn Martens, the set became an announcement: Diesel knows its history and consciously plays with it. Not a nostalgic look back, but a self-confident approach to its own DNA.
The Diesel fall/winter 2026/27 collection
The Diesel fall/winter 2026/27 menswear and womenswear collection moves between nostalgic roughness and conscious construction, firmly anchored in the brand’s DNA. Denim – Diesel’s original code – is stretched, washed and rebuilt. Oily surfaces and faded pastel shades make the looks appear worn and lived-in.
The silhouettes alternate between discipline and rupture. Sculptural bubble skirts meet sharply cut denim jackets, destroyed knits collide with voluminous faux-fur coats. Tailoring is present, but never flawless – frayed hems, uneven washes, deliberately imperfect surfaces. Even delicate floral prints and sugary pink are broken up by transparency and abrasion.
The color palette ranges from dark indigo and petrol to mint, blush and acid yellow – an echo of the surreal set. Accessories reinforce the tone: casual leather bags, elongated belts and heavy boots ground the sweetness. Martens doesn’t romanticize the past – he distorts and recalibrates it. The result is a balance of fantasy and abrasion. Adolescence meets adulthood, translated into denim.
Our top looks:
For fall/winter 2026/27, Diesel takes a precise approach to its own history, but with a touch of youthful exaggeration. The collection takes up the brand’s defining codes – denim as rebellion, youth culture as identity – and reshapes them through modern construction. The emotional undertone is clearly noticeable: a reminder of the years in which Diesel defined attitude for an entire generation. This memory is translated into a contemporary form – and shows that the DNA of a fashion house only lasts if it evolves rather than being preserved.
You can find the entire Diesel fall/winter 2026/27 show here.
You can find more articles for the fall/winter 2026/27 season on faces.ch here.
Teaser photo & photos: © Launchmetrics SpotlightSM
