Thierry Wasser is the magician behind Guerlain’s fragrances. The Swiss is one of the most famous perfumers in the world and has over 14 years of experience at the beauty label Guerlain under his belt.
FACES: In your opinion, what makes a good perfume?
Thierry Wasser: A good perfume reflects your personality. If a fragrance is too complex, people don’t understand it – and naturally don’t want to be associated with it. Guerlain’s expertise in sourcing ingredients and creating perfumes has always been very strong, which is what makes the label so special to me. It was Mr. Guerlain himself who gave me the best advice and the history of the house that inspires me time and time again.
F: What does your happiest day smell like?
TW: My happiest day smells like frozen food because it means I’m leaving Paris for one of my explorations.
F: Is there a smell you can’t stand at all?
TW : Maybe this is incomprehensible, but because of my profession, there really isn’t a single smell that bothers me. However, I find the smell of cabbage a little unpleasant.
F: What was the most valuable substance you have ever incorporated into a perfume?
TW: The value of a substance is not measured by its price, but by its rarity. Sometimes I discover a rare gem that inspires me to create a perfume – like the extraordinary orange blossom that I distil myself in Nabeul in Tunisia.
F: Which of your research trips has been the most extraordinary so far?
TW: Each of my trips is unique and spectacular. For example, the trip to the Amazon in Venezuela, where I followed in the footsteps of the tonka bean, the trip to Peru, which I took because of the rosewood, or of course my search for the missing sandalwood in Australia. Each of these trips was special and allowed me to meet great people – after all, they are what make these research trips so unique.
F: Which ingredients are true classics and which remain trends?
TW: In 1921, Jacques Guerlain created his signature fragrance, the so-called Guerlinade. This extraordinary bouquet of bergamot, iris, vanilla, tonka bean, rose and jasmine is traditionally found in all Guerlain perfumes.
On the other hand, new technologies give us the opportunity to create completely new fragrances and substances. CO2 extraction is one such process that allows us to discover different facets of known or lesser-known raw materials. New technologies and inventions broaden the palette of us perfumers.
F: Would you say your profession is glamorous?
TW: Of course, the profession of perfumer is definitely glamorous! I design or produce fragrances that speak to people from the soul. That’s pretty damn sexy!
F: What discovery are you particularly proud of?
TW: Sandalwood. The search for the missing sandalwood in India took me to Western Australia, where a huge, untouched and sustainable forest has been established, made up of trees that are between zero and 25 years old. This discovery made me particularly proud.
Discover the world of Guerlain perfumes and perhaps find your latest favorite fragrance here.
Join Thierry Wasser on his adventures: Here, the Guerlain perfumer picks roses or makes his way to the Valley of Roses in Bulgaria.
Perfumers are very special and exciting people. Read the interviews with Constance Georges-Picot and Jordi Fernandez here.
