Split shoes and opinions: The history of the tabi

“Ugly, strange, iconic”: hardly any other shoe triggers as much controversy as the tabi – the hoof-like shoe that separates the big toe from the others. Martin Margiela introduced his version of the former Japanese worker’s shoe to the fashion world, and tabi shoes have now almost become mainstream. A new Tabi Collector’s Edition by Margiela is released every year. It all started at the end of last year with a glittering model. While others spend their entire savings on this edition, we take the opportunity to delve into the history of the iconic toe splitter.

In 2023, a Tiktok user told a story that was as outrageous as it was amusing: Her Tinder date stole her Maison Margiela Tabi-Mary jeans to give to his girlfriend. The “Tabi-Swiper” story went viral. But it wasn’t just the brazen theft of the luxury shoes that caused a stir. The shoes themselves have been the subject of debate for years. With their toe-cutting hoof shape, Tabis are considered iconic among fashion lovers. They may be a bit weird, maybe even ugly, but they show that you have style and you’re not afraid to wear something rebellious. Since the Tabi-Swiper – maybe even a little before that – you can no longer necessarily call them an outsider shoe. Searches on Google and resale platforms such as Vinted or Vestiaire are soaring, reaching a peak last year – and so are the prices at which you can get hold of Margiela’s models.

500 years of toe separators

When self-proclaimed fashion experts accuse someone of wearing “fake tabi”, you need to listen up. Because there is no such thing as “fake tabi”. Tabi is a term for the shoe shape that separates the big toe from the other toes. Usually, “fake tabi” refers to versions that copy Martin Margiela’s aesthetic with the round, chunky heel. In 1988, it was precisely this type of tabi boot that catapulted the shoe into the limelight. Before his models walked down the runway, they walked through red paint. As a result, they left imprints of the unmistakable hoof silhouette on the floor.

However, the real story of the tabi begins a few years before the iconic runway show. A good 500 years ago, tabis were not fashionable boots, but above all socks and an indispensable part of the Japanese workforce. In the 15th century In the 19th century, Japan imported cotton from China. And used it to make socks that cut off the big toe so that they could be worn with toe sandals. Over time, they became suitable for outdoor wear: rubber soles transformed the socks into a kind of boot. Since the 1920s, when rubber soles were added, the so-called jika-tabi has been known as functional footwear for gardeners, construction workers and craftsmen.

But why this separation between the big toe and the rest? The reasons are simply practical and medical. The split toe area provides better support and almost gives the feeling of walking barefoot. Even today, many Tabi wearers swear by the shoes not only because they like the aesthetics, but also because they are comfortable even with a heel.

Too anatomical, too funny?

Despite the hype, there is still an aversion to the hoof shape. Is it because the anatomy of the foot is made a little too visible? Anyone who has landed in the fashion corner on TikTok will be familiar with the terms “Ugly Shoes” or, as they are also often called, “Man-Repellent” shoes. Of course, the fashion fans who wear these shoes don’t think they’re ugly. But the category includes shoes that deviate a little from the norm: with bizarre shapes, such as exaggeratedly pointed, angular or with strange silhouettes. Of course, the Tabi is right at the top of the league. Fashion influencer Mandy Lee regularly shows her collection of “freaky shoes”. Recently included: Tabi boots with an oversized bead by Sandy Liang.

Until now, tabis have been considered a distinguishing feature among outsiders and fashionistas, with many combining the two. If you turn up in Tabis anywhere outside a hip city, you’ll get a weird look. Whether this will continue remains to be seen. The fact is that they are being worn more and more often. There are now mary janes, boots, ballerinas and even sneakers – all with toe cleavage. Celebrities such as Rihanna, Cardi B and Dua Lipa are also frequently seen with Margiela hooves on their feet.

Tabi-Mania

The many collaborations and reinterpretations prove that, despite their controversial look, Tabis are first and foremost well received. The legendary Air Rift from Nike turns the hoof into a sneaker. This sneaker-sandal mix was actually intended for long-distance runners when it first came onto the market in 1996. Once again, the focus was on anatomy. Sneakers with a toe gap were intended to provide particularly good support when running. Today, fashion girls tend to queue up for them. This is also due to the fact that there are numerous limited and unique editions of the Air Rift: In red with embroidery, in silver or in pink with ballet shoe bows. Tabis cover the entire spectrum from comfortable sneakers to high heels: Margiela combined the iconic red sole with the split toe with Louboutin in spring 2025.

A Tabi does not necessarily make the foot more beautiful and certainly not smaller. Maybe that’s why so many people love the hoof. Fashion wants to dictate to women in particular what their silhouette should look like: As petite, thin and elegant as possible. A classic tabi boot does not fulfill this checklist – and is becoming more popular every year.

There are always outsider trends. The unique thing about tabi is its mixture of rich history and modern interpretation. It has endured in Japan for centuries – so it will stay with us, regardless of whether the hype lasts for several more years or dies down again soon.

The future is weird

Now we can’t wait to see which limited Collector’s Editions the haute couture maison will shake up the fashion world with. Only 25 examples of the very first Margiela Collector’s Edition with mirror-look embroidery were produced worldwide. Each pair was embroidered with more than 8,000 glass beads, sequins and metallic embellishments.

If you’re not one of the lucky 25 or want to go one step further, you can take a look around to see which “Weird Shoe” we’ll be looking for next. The Vibram Five Finger is already considered an it-piece and is the next step after the Tabi among fashion lovers – after all, it shows real courage to be ugly and show all five toes. And the finger boots from Swedish It label Avavav also play with strange silhouettes and look like you’re wearing hands on your feet. Shoes not only carry us through the day, but also leave traces and messages, depending on which model you choose.