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Small and cozy, that’s Helsinki. A place where we hibernate, snuggle up and watch the snow fall. The Finnish capital is like the flickering of a candle, the light in the night, the flame that warms our fingers when everything outside is freezing. Hat, scarf, gloves: pack what you can. The cold quickly gets to your limbs here, as the wind blows in from the sea. The people are all the friendlier for it and warm the heart with their smiles. Teo Virtanen knows Helsinki inside out and knows how to convince us to visit his homeland now.
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Living
Hotel Finn is home to the cool kids and all those who don’t want to spend too many euros on accommodation. Everything here has one thing above all: charm. If you want to spend the winter in a more luxurious cave, stay at the Hotel Fabian. Elegant rooms, warm light, designer furniture – everything at its best. Also cool: You don’t get your breakfast from the buffet, but watch the chef prepare your eggs. The Glo Hotel Kluuvi is posh and fancy. Very mature, but still cool. You know what I mean.
Hotel Finn, B, Kalevankatu, 3, www.hotellifinn.fi
Hotel Fabian, Fabianinkatu, 7, www.hotelfabian.fi
Glo Hotel Kluuvi, Kluuvikatu, 4, www.glohotels.fi
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Food
You can get the best coffee in Helsinki at Cafetoria Roastery – and it smells fantastic as soon as you step over the threshold. Tapas are not only available in Spain, but also in Finland – at least at Juuri. Here, the small appetizers (spinach and cream cheese crêpes or sesame carrots) are confidently called sapas. Konstan Molja serves Finnish home cooking and regional specialties, while at Toca you first decide on the number of courses and choose your dishes accordingly. Good food at a reasonable price (not a matter of course in Helsinki) can be found at Ravintola Kuu: Finnish cheese and reindeer, here you get the full Scandinavian program. If you prefer vegetarian food, head to Zucchini, where the funny name is part of the credo.
Cafetoria Roastery, Runeberginkatu, 31, www.cafetoria.fi
Juuri, Korkeavuorenkatu, 27, www.juuri.fi
Konstan Molja, Hietalahdenkatu, 14, www.konstanmolja.fi
Toca, Unioninkatu, 18, www.toca.fi
Ravintola Kuu, Töölönkatu, 27, www.ravintolakuu.info
Zucchini, Fabianinkatu, 4, www.eat.fi/fi/helsinki/zucchini
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Shopping
Browse and browse, stick your nose between two book covers and simply do one thing again: read. You can do this in the Arkadia International Bookshop. The second-hand chain UFF second hand has numerous stores throughout the city – it’s worth planning a little more time here. Numerous Finnish designers have joined forces under the name Made in Kallio. In their studio, the creative minds share their ideas and show their work. The in-house café is a great place to linger, and the associated store stocks many favorite items. At some point, Scandinavian design takes hold of everyone. And when the time comes, Liike is the perfect place to indulge your passion for cool accessories and clothes.
Arkadia International Bookshop, Nervanderinkatu, 11, www.arkadiabookshop.fi
UFF second hand, Runeberginkatu, 4c, www.uff.fi
Made in Kallio, Vaasankatu, 14, www.madeinkallio.fi
Liike, Fredrikinkatu, 24, www.liike-shop.com
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Party
Good food, delicious cocktails, it can be that simple. Add the right music and nothing stands in the way of an evening at Navy Jerry’s. If you can do without an umbrella in your glass, go for a beer at Kaisla, a real Finnish pub. The oldest and best-known rock club in Finland is Tavastia. It’s a party place every weekend – until the police clear the building.
Navy Jerry’s, Hietaniemenkatu, 2, www.navyjerrys.fi
Kaisla, Vilhonkatu, 4, www.raflaamo.fi/fi/helsinki/kaisla
Tavastia, Urho Kekkosen katu, 6, www.tavastiaklubi.fi
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Quarters
Tori is the old town district of Helsinki. Everything is changing here at the moment: everything is becoming more modern, hipper, there’s no getting around it. If you’re fed up with the smell of the city, you can relax in Töölö Bay. Parks and green spaces as far as the eye can see, where you can take a leisurely stroll or explore the area by bike.
Tori, Old Town quarter, www.visithelsinki.fi
Töölö Bay, park, www.google.ch/maps
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Must do
Finns are active people. No more lazing around on your skin, exercise is the order of the day so that you don’t freeze to death in the darker months. In Helsinki, you go to Taitoliikuntakeskus – actually a sports center, but in reality a playground for adults. Trampoline, foam pool, diving boards – need we say more? The toilet in the Tower Hotel‘s Penthouse Cocktail Lounge offers the best view of the city. There are also good cocktails here.
Taitoliikuntakeskus, Telakkakatu, 8, www.taitoliikuntakeskus.fi
Torni Tower Hotels, Yrjönkatu, 26, www.sokoshotels.fi
Events
Ai Weiwei @ Helsinki
until 28.2.2016
Ai Weiwei exhibits his works at the Helsinki Art Museum. This is the first time the Chinese artist has visited Finland.
www.hamhelsinki.fi/
Ballet School Christmas Gala
10.12. until 18.12.
The talents of the Ballet School take to the stage at the Finnish National Opera to show off their skills.
www.visithelsinki.fi
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Teo Virtanen
is a photographer
loves licorice, bobble, photography
hates hate