Jordi Fernandez is the man behind five fragrances from Atelier Versace. In this interview, the perfumer from Givaudan reveals that his work is not as glamorous as you might think and why he, the “Master of Oud”, is actually a little bit in love with patchouli.
FACES: You work for Givaudan, one of the largest perfume manufacturers in the world. How should we imagine a perfumer’s typical working day?
Jordi Fernandez: Well, I’m an early riser and definitely a morning person. That’s why I’m already in the office at around 8 a.m., have a quick coffee and check my emails before I dive into the previous day’s creations and work on new formulas. The work of a perfumer has many dimensions, and we are also active in the areas of evaluation and marketing. I spend two weeks a month in my lab in Barcelona and the rest of the time in my office in Dubai.
Q: Of course there are prejudices about your job as a perfumer. Which are true and which are false?
JF: Many people believe that the perfumers work directly with the brands or that the brands themselves are the perfumers behind a creation. In reality, we mostly work for companies that sell to different brands. It is a business-to-business industry, and often the perfumer is not even present at the end of a project. We are an important part of the end product, but we rarely get the recognition for it. A perfumer does not work alone, but together with teams that take care of marketing or evaluation.
Q: What are the most important qualities of a good perfumer?
JF: Patience, perseverance and hard work, in other words resilience. Our industry is very demanding and full of people with a lot of talent. You need an enormous amount of perseverance and have to constantly question yourself and improve in order to reach a good level.
Q : How is it possible to keep developing new ingredients?
JF: With a lot of research. The collaboration between the perfumers and the scientists is crucial. They listen to our needs in terms of the olfactory profile of the ingredients and develop ideas for new molecules that are produced synthetically in the most environmentally friendly way possible.
“There is an enormous amount of freedom behind Atelier Versace’s creations.”
Q : You are often referred to as the “Master of Oud”. What fascinates you so much about this fragrance?
JF: I feel very honored to be called that. I have always been enchanted by oriental perfumery, the way they apply their perfumes and their depth. What I love most about oud is its complex personality. For example, when you burn natural wood, it reveals its unique soft, balsamic and velvety note, but as soon as you add a tiny amount to the fragrance, it unfolds a rich, animalic depth. Last but not least, oud is a perfect blend with many of my other favorites like rose, vanilla and akigalawood.
Q : You have already created five Versace perfumes. What do you associate with this brand?
JF: The fragrance of this brand is unique, original and glamorous, and the perfumes are particularly luxurious with precious ingredients such as saffron, vanilla, incense or red ginger.
Q: How do you start creating a new perfume?
JF: It all starts with an idea that comes from many sources of inspiration and visualizes the perfume. This idea is then translated into a formula that is put together in the laboratory to create a real fragrance. Of course, there are numerous attempts and many possible combinations until we have fine-tuned the final result. The briefing we receive from customers also sets the direction we will take. Colors and mood boards also help us to select the raw materials we will use.
Q : How do Atelier Versace perfumes differ from mass market fragrances?
JF: There is an enormous amount of freedom behind Atelier Versace’s creations, probably the same freedom that can be found in the fashion collections. Versace didn’t set me any limits when designing the fragrances, so I was able to think outside the box and use the ingredients I wanted without any restrictions on price or anything like that.
Q: The perfumes from Atelier Versace are niche fragrances. It seems that everyone is looking for niche fragrances these days. Why is that?
JF: People are becoming more and more interested in perfume and how it is created and want unusual ideas and fragrances with personality that are original, long-lasting and environmentally friendly. Demands have definitely risen, and that is one reason why the market for niche perfumes is constantly expanding.
Q: What is your definition of a niche perfume?
JF: I would say any perfume that breaks the olfactory rules and goes its own way. An explosion of honest, boundless creation with no regard for the needs of the market.
Q : What do you look for when choosing your own perfume?
JF: My perfume should match my personality and my mood. I don’t use perfume in everyday life as it might confuse me at work, but when I can, I choose something that makes me feel comfortable and gives me that feeling of something special.
Q: What is your favorite natural scent?
JF: Patchouli is an icon of perfumery with an unmistakable, timeless olfactory signature. Patchouli often takes center stage in my creations as it adds richness and complexity to the fragrance. For me, it is the beating heart of the perfume, a unique pillar that represents the strength and power of nature.
Q : What is the most important lesson you have learned as a perfumer?
JF: That you should never give up. The perfume industry is tough and demanding. Especially at the beginning, you will lose much more often than you win. That’s why you have to be patient and consistent in order to deal with failure and keep going. I have been working in this industry for more than 20 years and work every day to develop and improve.
Read here about Iris Law as a model for Versace perfume
