Breitling new redesigned Navitimer

Anyone familiar with the brand will associate Breitling with the iconic Navitimer. Recently I mentioned to a friend my 2021 interview with Georges Kern, the CEO of Breitling, and immediately he said “Oh, the pilots’ watch!” No Karen, Breitling offers diverse watch designs with different characteristics, such as the SuperOcean, Chronomat, and the Crosswind. But I concede, the Navitimer is Breitling’s “favorite child.” The most iconic piece of Breitling.

Willy Breitling created the first Navitimer in 1952. The classic chronograph was intended to be a “flight computer,” with specifics that allow pilots to calculate average speed, distance traveled, fuel consumption, and rate of climb. It became the watch of choice among pilots, astronauts, and in the 60’s the “It” watch among celebrities of this era, like Miles Davis.

The Navitimer evolved over several decades, 70 years to be precise. Today it is more than a timekeeper, or a practical instrument for those guys of the jet age. The legendary watch, refined with modern specifics, is a favorite among horophiles and celebrities alike. It is a luxury accessory with functionality, status, and aesthetic features.

Navitimer Launch on Cloud Number 9

On the 29th of March Breitling flew international press, retailers, and Breitling Partners from Zurich to Geneva, where the Watch & Wonders trade show took place. But before this cheeky move to fly guests “into the arms of the competitors” guests were treated to the spectacularly unforgettable “Breitling experience”.

At a secluded departure lounge at Zurich airport, guests gathered to board flights to Geneva. The lounge was tastefully decorated with the DNA code of Breitling – the aviation theme present everywhere. Guests all talking the same “love language” – Luxury watches. We were indulged with the finest champagne, while eagerly awaiting the unveiling of the new Navitimer.

Before boarding the three international Swiss air flights, Mr. Kern, looking dapper in a perfectly tailored pilot’s uniform, took the opportunity to address the current serious issues our world is facing, and Breitling and Swiss Air’s commitment to a sustainable future . . . a concept that seems almost impossible. But then the concept of flying was also considered impossible when the world was still in greyscale. In fact, Breitling ensured the flights transporting the guests to Geneva were carbon neutral, by buying the equivalent amount of sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) via Swiss Compensaid program.

Experience is everything

“What better place than in the air to launch this new collection,” said Breitling CEO, Georges Kern. “The Navitimer began as a pilot’s navigational tool. Today it’s a symbol for everyone plotting their personal journeys through life. It’s rare for a watch to maintain its popularity over 70 years and still come back with an even broader appeal.”

Onboard, on the seat of each guest, was a new iPad, with instructions not to open it before the pilot gives the okay. – Worst thing, worst to instruct the Nadia to not open something! I could hear every Breitling on that flight tick-tock while tapping my leg waiting impatiently to open the iPad. The iPad served as the “in-flight entertainment” The new redesigned Navitimer was unveiled in a special edition of the Breitling summit webcast. The webcast also took guests through the history of the Navitimer, to the stylish, classic, coveted icon it is today.

Once the flights reached cruising altitude, stewardesses dressed in vintage outfits distributed the new Navitimer collection. Passengers had the opportunity to try the watches, and experience every detail of the breathtaking collection, with almost all 5 senses. (yes, I did smell the leather, but I promise I did not lick it)

The New Navitimer

LOGO – AOPA wings return to their original position at 12 o’clock.
Wait, what?
The original 1952 Navitimer had the AOPA wings at 12 o’clock.
In the 70s Breitling released the Navitimer with an automatic caliber, making it one of the world’s first self-winding chronographs. A special “Breitling Genève” logo was used at this time
In 1979 the Schneider family acquired Breitling and launched a mechanical tribute to the original Navitimer, with the new wings logo at the 12’o clock position.
1990 Breitling introduced an enhanced Navitimer collection with new complications as rattrapante or perpetual calendar.
The 2022 – The original AOPA logo is back at 12’o clock.

The Design: The new Navitimer’s design stays true to the DNA of the original Navitimer of 1952, capturing its most famous features, while enhancing them with more contemporary characteristics. Making the Navitimer trendier, and more appealing to multiple audiences in the “casual luxury” market. The chronograph Navitimer profile takes a more compact, sleeker silhouette, with a flattened slide rule instead of sloped and domed crystal. The watch case comes in different sizes – 41mm, 43mm, and 46mm, with a variety of unexpected and exciting different dial color options: copper, ice-blue, mint-green, and dark emerald. Another available case option is the 18k red gold. For the first time, the Navitimer shows off with an exhibition case back. The wearer can choose between a stainless-steel metal bracelet or a semi-shiny alligator leather strap. Clearly, no detail was spared in the design of the New Navitimer.

Since I am no horophile I may not be able to explain the new aspects of the Navitimer in watch connoisseur parlance, but here goes …

The Slide Rule: If you had math in 1971 you would know what the slide rule is. I was only born 10 years later, so I will elaborate for the sake of 1980 and later generations. The slide rule, in simple terms, is a mechanical calculator which was an important tool before the digital era. The first Navitimer in the 1950’s was developed for pilots and brought the board computer to the wrist. The name Navitimer is actually a combination of navigation and timer. The new collection preserves the circular slide rule, but with visibly clear modern refinements.

The Bezel: A watch bezel is the ring surrounding the watch crystal. The bezel has different functions, depending on the watch model. In the case of a chronograph like the Navitimer, it functions as a converter of distance into speed, and vice versa. Furthermore, it allows the manipulation of the slide rule. The new Navitimer’s bezel has a flusher look, and a knurled surface, that allows an easy grip.
Aperture: A small window where information like the date is displayed. The new Navitimer has a newly integrated date window at 6 o’clock, resulting in a perfectly symmetrical dial.

Caliber: In horology, caliber equals movement. Basically, the heart of the watch. The new Navitimer models are equipped with an automatic Breitling Manufacture Caliber B01.This movement is backed by a five-year warranty, provides approximately 70 hours of power reserve, and allows the wearer to change the date at any time. Apart from being able to read the time, I knew nothing about horology. The way the Navitimer was launched was so fascinating that it sparked my curiosity. Now I understand why this iconic piece is so coveted. Maybe next time I choose a watch it won’t just be “I want that one,” based solely on the appearance. I now understand the specifications and features better. OKAY – I lie, my choice will still be based solely on the appearance, but at least I know more today than yesterday. My personal choice: The red gold case with the silver dial, and the red-gold metal bracelet. Which is unfortunately not available in the 43mm. Classic Nadia, naturally complicated. I always want to order “off the menu.”

The Navitimer collection is available online and in all retail stores worldwide.