Amid intense speculation in the industry that the Saint Laurent Summer 2027 collection might be Anthony Vaccarello’s last for the house, gold became the emotional language of the clothing. Beneath monumental chandeliers overlooking the illuminated Eiffel Tower, restraint was certainly not on the agenda. If this was indeed his final show, Vaccarello chose to bow out with a fireworks display of absolute, uncompromising opulence.
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent women’s collection for summer 2027 doesn’t just feature a few golden accents—it’s practically brimming with gold. To mistake this deliberate opulence for a lack of substance or character requires a very special kind of blindness. Behind the grandiose spectacle—which escapes those who merely criticize the surface—lies a strictly controlled, retrospective refinement of the house’s iconic codes.
Vaccarello revisits a decade of his own distinctive silhouettes, paired with the house’s historic archetypes: safari jackets, trench coats, wrap skirts, precise tailoring, and broad-shouldered blousons. Alternating between lamé, brocade, jacquard, guipure lace, and metallic cotton, the gold shifts from hard and reflective to soft and tactile. Bare midriffs, fur-trimmed cuffs, monumental filigree earrings, and shoes with snake-print heels create a provocatively edgy look—the unmistakable hallmark of the Vaccarello era. Then the gold disappears abruptly. Black velvet and a trio of enormous, cloud-like evening gowns absorb the light that had dominated the runway just moments before.
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The collection has the precision of a farewell that one has imagined long before the first word is spoken aloud—as if Vaccarello had quietly and discreetly contemplated what his final chapter at Saint Laurent should look like, saving some of his most striking gestures for the end.
Since neither Saint Laurent nor Kering has officially confirmed Vaccarello’s departure, the significance of the collection remains intriguingly unclear. But if this really was his final show after a decade with the house, then the Saint Laurent Summer 2027 collection is a masterful farewell: excessive, uncompromising, and bathed in gold.
You can find the entire Saint Laurent show here.
You can find out more about the upcoming Spring/Summer 2027 collections here.
Teaser photo & photos: © Launchmetrics Spotlight
