One last party with Glenn Martens.
Diesel has always had something wonderfully ahead-of-its-time about it. The jeans are already ripped, the T-shirts already cut too short, the skin already showing. The brand is part of that very special moment in youth when independence feels absolute, consequences remain largely theoretical, and tomorrow matters far less than what happens tonight.
Glen Martens has always understood Diesel’s unique spirit: the luxury label for rebels who never really wanted to act like luxury consumers in the first place. So there’s no polite farewell for his final show. Instead, Martens is bringing Diesel back to the club. For Spring/Summer 2027, this instinct gets an extra boost. This is Glenn Martens’ final collection for Diesel, and instead of delivering a solemn retrospective, he’s throwing a party.
“At Diesel, the party always comes first,” says Martens. “It’s about inclusivity, self-expression, fun, and the democracy of the experience.” His closing suggestion is just as clear: “We’re all in this together: Let’s really let loose one more time.”
The runway was transformed into a club built specifically for the occasion, but the reference went deeper than just the set design. Anyone who went clubbing in the ’90s, before cell phones turned every night into a record of it, knows the feeling: baggy, ripped Diesel jeans, Doc Martens, and crop tops that were actually cropped. No content, no proof, no show for anyone who wasn’t there. Your fake ID was proof of life.
That’s the essence of Diesel. A brand for everyone who lives in the moment—whatever “living in the moment” may mean right now.
The Diesel Spring-Summer 2027 Collection
The Diesel Spring-Summer 2027 collection embodies the same beautiful chaos. The clothing refuses to remain what it appears to be at first glance: waxed leather, tailoring, ribbed knitwear, and sportswear merge into individual garments; denim is coated and laser-cut to look like leather, while trompe-l’œil prints transform light shirts into winter coats and tiny denim shorts into jersey pieces. The skin becomes part of the design, visible through orchid-shaped cutouts, low-cut waists, and T-shirts, sweatshirts, and dresses that are cut away almost to the point of invisibility. Elsewhere, twisted floral patterns, intricate tailoring, and reimagined T-shirts look like the aftermath of getting dressed far too hastily after a night that lasted far too long. Ultimately, everything returns to Diesel’s cornerstone: denim. Bootcut pants, straight-leg cuts, slashed hems, and barely there shorts round out the collection.
Our favorite looks:
Youth is never as perfect while you’re living it as it seems in hindsight. The best nights are chaotic. Clothes get ruined, plans change, someone kisses someone they probably shouldn’t, and no one knows yet which moments will ultimately become memories. If any at all. Diesel has built a whole universe around this tension: rebellion, yes, but with an air of innocence in the background. Stonewashed, distressed, ripped, and deliberately imperfect—its denim made damage desirable long before imperfection became fashion’s favorite marketing buzzword.
Martens has understood this contradiction. After six years at Diesel, he isn’t leaving the company by cleaning it up, explaining it, or romanticizing it. He leaves it exactly where it belongs: somewhere between rebellion and innocence, in the imperfect present.
You can find the entire Diesel SS27 show here.
You can find out more about the upcoming Spring-Summer 2027 collections here.
Teaser photo & photos: © Launchmetrics Spotlight
